Snowmobile World banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As you probably know, I just picked up a '07 MXZ Adrenaline 600SDI. I just finished my 4th season w/ a '04 Legend 600SDI. Anything I should watch for?

I figure after the 1st season I'll swap out the plastic a arm bushings for the bronze bushing kit. Is there any advantage to using the rear torsion spring spacers?

Also, is there a "typical" suspension to start the spring adjusters @? Especially on the ski shocks? I weigh 172# w/o my gear on & riding mostly on groomed trails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
Kris,

The bushings in the front end are a non issue if you lube them periodically with a shot of Krown water dispersant & lube. The bushing collars get rusty and wear away quickly.

The rear torsion bushing kit is good for folks on the upper edge of the spring weight chart #250 + without gear on. Your weight is right in the the average zone.

You will first notice that the steering seems stiffer than the ZX chassis and that the sled seems a little tippy. Once you get over the differences (about a day in the saddle) you'll find the sled goes where ever you point it. I have tweaked my suspension front skid shock and limiter strap back and forth to accommodate snow and trail conditions but found staying close to stock set up and adjusting my riding style to be less labour intensive. The chart on the belt guard is pretty close to utopia for average weight riders. The best way to set up the rear springs is to install your traveling gear (saddle bags, gas can etc.) then sit on the sled. Allow for about 3" of sag and adjust the torsion spring cams accordingly. The coupler blocks are a personal preference, at fully coupled you gain a lot of traction but lose some steering efficiency accelerating out of corners. At the other end of the scale (least coupling) the steering is very tight but the rear end will steer the sled out of corners. In '05 ~ '07 the coupling blocks are 4 way adjustable so you have a good range. I would advise to put some combined trail / lake kilometers on the sled before fine tuning the chassis. Once the edge is worn off the carbides and the track softens, the sled behaves quite differently.

I hope you get to use it this season so the wait over the summer isn't too bad.
 

·
oldslowsledder
Joined
·
6,491 Posts
You will first notice that the steering seems stiffer than the ZX chassis and that the sled seems a little tippy.[/b]
Sorry TD, don't agree with this statement. Perhaps on the earlier Revs but with the lower ride height introduced in 06 this became a non-issue, personally went from an 02 Legend with no such problem (in my humble opinion :rolleyes: )

Only concern I've had is with chain adjustment (suspect it was overlooked on PDI), three full turns at 15 kilometers and lots of filings. I pulled the cover at 100 kilometers, cleaned everything and reassembled. Much better , still requiring frequent adj but after pulling the cover again at 800 kilometeres to clean this seems to have settled down.

Belt seems to run hotter as well, something to keep an eye out for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Trails are closed around Apsley :( Hopefully we have a snowy deer hunt in November & get a chance to ride it then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Sorry TD, don't agree with this statement. Perhaps on the earlier Revs but with the lower ride height introduced in 06 this became a non-issue, personally went from an 02 Legend with no such problem (in my humble opinion :rolleyes: )

Belt seems to run hotter as well, something to keep an eye out for.[/b]
I think the ride height change would make a big difference. Also, I heard or read around the time the '04s were introduced that the front spring/shock valving was "soft" on the '03s. This caused the body roll that may have exerted too much weight transfer to the outside ski in a turn. As a result the sled felt tippy & the steering was aggressive.

This was 1 reason I wasn't crazy about the REV. I didn't feel as comfortable or confident w/ its handling as I was w/ my '01 MXZ.

Cory, it's been mentioned on the 'net in the past & the sister-in-law's cousin (owns a '05 GSX 500SS) said the same thing today, drill out the 4 rivets that hold the plastic belt cover from the aluminum belt guard & remove the cover. I think the mountain guys have been doing this since day 1 of the REV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I've read on the other site a big concern about the y pipe bolts coming loose. Well I've had 2 Series 3 motors & never had a problem. Have any of you had yours come loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
I've read on the other site a big concern about the y pipe bolts coming loose. Well I've had 2 Series 3 motors & never had a problem. Have any of you had yours come loose?[/b]

haven't had mine come loose..but I have seen it 2 times in the past with people I was riding with on an 03 & 06.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
Kris,

As Jeff (trailblazer) said the 07 model already has the steering column rearward mounted. I coundn't see whether your sled was equipped with a riser from the photo. The riser allows quite a range of adjuustment and the only issue is if someone goes too high the throttle cable and brake line becomes too short. Another technical issue with some sleds are the drain holes in the air box.They seem to let in snow & belt dust. I'm not sure if late build 2007 models adressed that issue since I haven't had too many '07s (good thing !) apart. The main electrical relay location can be modified to hang it sideways and lessen the vibration and hence failure rate (carry a spare). The pull cord bezel is a good investment if no electric start. The RH side cover seem to get banged up by the pull cord unless your careful or off the sled when you start it. The y-pipe issue was addressed in production by installing bolts with lock adhesive already on them like auto manufacturers do. The oil cable adjustment is worth checking out.. most dealers have a "go / no go" gage block for checking them but that depends who did the PDI technician.
 

·
oldslowsledder
Joined
·
6,491 Posts
I've read on the other site a big concern about the y pipe bolts coming loose. Well I've had 2 Series 3 motors & never had a problem. Have any of you had yours come loose?[/b]
No problem here either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,708 Posts
Cory, it's been mentioned on the 'net in the past & the sister-in-law's cousin (owns a '05 GSX 500SS) said the same thing today, drill out the 4 rivets that hold the plastic belt cover from the aluminum belt guard & remove the cover. I think the mountain guys have been doing this since day 1 of the REV.[/b]
My clutches seemed to be running a little hot. Destroyed a belt while playing around in a field. After this, I took the plastic off that you are talking about and this winter took the tool kit out that was by the left foot. Clutches seemed to be cooler. I could put my hand on them.

Like TD said, behind the air box was some holes on the earlier REVs at least. Belt dust was getting in the holes and then getting in the carbs. I put prefilter material over mine. I thought this was supposed to be fixed on the newer ones but am not positive.

I havent checked my y-pipe yet. Thats on the list to do this fall before next year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
If anyone wants to take all the play out of their steering and have less effort in their REVS, let me know. I can get you hooked up GOOD!!!

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,236 Posts
Welcome to the REV, you'll like it . Theres a few things I did to ours (05 ss's) im not sure if some of it is the same on the 07's or sdi's but it's worth a check.

-*on the belt guard I drilled 1" holes in the plastic to vent it out, I didnt want to take the chance for the clutches getting into the panels if I layed it over or if a belt went.
* pull the tool kit box out of the foot well to let more air flow and stuff the tools in the trunk theres a hole in the seat for it.
* on the backside of the air box( on panel) there's 4 holes cover them with pre filter.
* CARB BOOTS !!! watch your boots , many have pin holes from delamation , also y-pipe cracks and loosening bolts.
*on your first ride keep checking the plastic sleeves on the upper back arm under the torsion springs , I had them work out into the bearing of the upper carriers and toasted the bearings.
* if you pull the plastic deck (taillight assy) , check the weld on the end of the cooler , I had a pin hole there ,also found the front arm bolts loose
* coolant bottle leaks (cap) and snug all hose clamps both of ours were leaking .
* oil cap leaks on some .

Heat is the enemy of the rev, alot of heat gets trapped under the hood . vent it if you can , I put some extra vents in on the muffler side ski tower and in the dash where the temp& gas gages go.

Im sure you would find some stuff as your polishing it over the long summer days, thats when i found some of our stuff . we bought ours in june and it was one of the longest summers ever. Less than 24hrs from bringing them home I had mine tore apart for the 136 kit .

good luck and congats on the 07

mutt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The holes are still uncovered on the '07 SDIs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,319 Posts
If anyone wants to take all the play out of their steering and have less effort in their REVS, let me know. I can get you hooked up GOOD!!!

Mike[/b]
I was at Mike's house tonight and he showed me the parts that he's referring to.
We also compared 2 sleds with one of them having them installed and one not,
Both of his sleds are raced in sno cross and we all know what torture they're put through.
The pic below is Mike airborne on his mod sled at the Chicopee Sno Cross.
There is absolutely no play in the steering. None.
I'm thinking of getting a set once I get a season on my new sled.

I'll definitely vouch for Mike's credibility. He's a stand up guy.
Just look at his pic. LOL

Jeff
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,958 Posts
I was at Mike's house tonight and he showed me the parts that he's referring to.
We also compared 2 sleds with one of them having them installed and one not,
Both of his sleds are raced in sno cross and we all know what torture they're put through.
The pic below is Mike airborne on his mod sled at the Chicopee Sno Cross.
There is absolutely no play in the steering. None.
I'm thinking of getting a set once I get a season on my new sled.

I'll definitely vouch for Mike's credibility. He's a stand up guy.
Just look at his pic. LOL

Jeff[/b]
so is this a big secret? still have not heard what what IT is :slick:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,319 Posts
so is this a big secret? still have not heard what what IT is :slick:[/b]
Matt, it's Mike's thing.
He's pretty busy and may not be logging on here. I know he was working on his mod sled today.
Why don't you PM him to let him know that inquiring minds want to know and then he can explain it way better than I can.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
What is is, is a kit that replaces the steering pieces at the bottom of the steering post. Instead of bushings, it is all with needle bearings. As Jeff said, takes out all the play. If you would like to get some, PM me and I will give you the contact for the gentleman that makes them.

Mike
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top