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I'm swapping out the my 2002 Tc's reverse case's auto tensioner for the manual style. i bought an a/c kit that comes with the tensioner roller assm. and the adjuster nut assm. i removed the automatic style aluminium roller assm. and while installing the new steel style one, i found that it needs a bushing for the stud on the case housing that the tensioner arm pivots on. i would think the bushing along with the nut and two washers needed would have come with the kit?? so i ordered one, now i find that the bushing is to large to fit in the tensioner arms hole, it fits the stud just fine. i checked the numbers for the bushing and that's what it calls for. so i used a dremel to open the hole a bit, but I'm afraid now that the bore is so large that it'll break when the chain puts pressure on it? anyone else run into this?????? is there a different number for the bushing needed for this oem offered kit that i seem to not find anywhere?


my second question
is kinda my fault. when i took the gears and chain off to replace the broken chain housing the snapped chain ate up, i didn't directlly pay to much attention to the position of the thrust washers and thicker spacer washer on the idlershaft. i have looked through several manuals and spoke to several techs, and none can seem to place the third thrush washer right. i have attached a pic of the assm. whats puzzling is i actually have three of the #27 thin thrust washers and one #28, all the info I've encountered says there's three thin washers required and the pictures and manuals, only show the position of two of the thin ones and the the thick one on the outside end of the shaft closest to the cover.

some have said to delete it, some place it between the idler gears, others said it goes on the shaft between the thick spacer and the inner bearing cage for the outer idler gear. i'm rather comfused now, but the end of the idlershaft fits into the recessed bore in the cover, and i think it is preloading my idler gear set inwards whit the thrust washer in that positon. i believe the idler gaer set should float and align itself in relation to the the other gears correct?????

third question
let me start with a little insite. this is a 2002 t-cat which came with reverse. last season i replaced the chain and top gear with one tooth smaller 23 vs 24. the chain was quite loose,but only had the auto tensioner around halfway out. i checked the alignment of the gears.which is a ##### with only a small surface on the lower gear to lay the straightedge,which is compounded by the float on the cage bearing between the lower reverse style gears intermedate shaft. the alignment seemed fine. the chain lasted only about 400 miles and broke. it took out both the housings.i replaced the housings and installed new bearings on both the jack and driveshafts.
the wear patterens from the gears looked ok. the pattern was nice and even across the tooth face. i reinstalled the original 24 tooth gear on top, and proceeded to check the alignment. i found that i needed to install a .030 shim to correct the alignment of the top gear. at this time i had spoke to a few techs and decided to delete the thrid thrust washer and assemble the idler gear as outlined in the service manual. this is where i believe i screwed up. i installed a used housing cover that had been damaged/scratched by the broken spring that retains the lower gear. it looked to be ok to use. bolted it back together and ran it 250 miles before i found that the cover was cracked and lost all the fluid. it smoked the chain and upper gear blue. while removing the upper gear i noticed that the wear patteren from two teeth of the chain was biteing into the gear tooth very deeply on the inside, (closest to the brake rotor). the wear patteren was consistant around the whole gear, so i don't think the upper shaft is bent.

the chain was allmost black from heat and completely streached out to the point of breakage. the upper gear was a very deep blue, the idler gear showed a very slight darkening along with the upper bearing and jackshaft end. the lower gear showed no discoloring at all? due to running with the lack of lube.

i'm questioning my gear alignment measurments, but i'm also thinking that due to the fact the upper gear was so hot and swelling it could have caused the missalignment. which was pushing the gear out and away from the inner case jackshaft bearing?

now i have replaced the upper chaincase bearing, the chain and upper gear along with the housing cover. remeasured the gear alignment and found that now i needed an additional .015 shim along with the .030 shim to align the gear set.
both of the upper and the one lower case bearings i have installed have been of the new design. with the inner race now has a seal ring to seal the shaft leakage, which i still applied a bead a sealant anyway, the bearing cage on both the upper and lower now have an additional metel shield facing into the case lube area. they appear to be sealed and no longer splash lubed from the gear lube? also installed the affore mentioned manual chain tensioner kit with the modified arm to bushing rig.

i've ran this new set up about 250 miles now and it's still holding together so far. i've adjusted the tensioner just a smig more that two complete turns after break in for strechafter 150 miles.

i want to solve this tensioner arm problem before i open the case up to inspect its preformance. i don't trust the arm holding up as i had to trim out the diamater from 6-7 mm to around 3-4mm to fit the bushing. it appears quite thin now, and i'm concerned that either an abrupt shock from braking or track slip and grip along with wear and tear, the new clearance will leave me to walking.

i'm also concerned with the placement of the thrid shim on the idler gear. if it does go between the thick washer and the idlershaft bearing. i think it will preload the idler gear set to far inward, were as i've had to shim the upper gear so far outward.

3holer in termoil
 

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