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Discussion Starter #1
thanks for any feed back from you would be more then welcome!!!

usage: would be more for agressive trail with 192 stud's,lake drag racing (for fun),
hard pack back road's....
 

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thanks for any feed back from you would be more then welcome!!!

usage: would be more for agressive trail with 192 stud's,lake drag racing (for fun),
hard pack back road's....[/b]
I have the exact same sled and last year I put on the 1.25” Ripsaw, I am an aggressive trail rider and also do a little off trail riding. I love the track! However I am not able to stud it, going to the 1.25” I had to remove the tunnel and heat exchanger guards so the track would fit. Putting studs on will rip things apart underneath without the gaurds, keep that in mind. I also don’t have any lake crossings in my area so studs weren’t a major concern. If you have any questions with this project let me know I can let you know what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hello stenzo !
I'm also A aggressive trail rider/lake runner...my thought of the shotgun track is that it's 2 pounds lighter,with 96 predrilled holes,plus material in the area for the other 96 stud's That I want to use...The ripsay doesn't look as beefy in the stud are,BUT! has more track lug for the loose stuff on the trail/road's...man! very big tossup on track selection.....wish i had the money to buy both ,And test them out,but Am limited on the fund's like most people...

my thought for the extra lug height was to lowwer the front/top suspension mount ,and reajust the preload of the front shock to compinsate for the ski pressure for my setup..
would like to hear from you on your methed's on going about this???thanks for the reply!
 

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I am going to get a shotgun for my vmax 800, I hear alot of people trash Kimpex, but if they were so bad they would not be still selling sled parts!!!!!IMHO they are just as good if not better then camo tracks......and cheaper!
 

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I would get smaller drive gears . They make different size ones . This allows for more room between the front cooler and track. Easy to do because your taking them out anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
srv 540!
Thanks for the thumb's up on the shotgun track.I was leaning more towards this track myself. just want some more opinion's on it...

bone daddy!
If i run smaller dia.. drive's I would have to gear it lowwer.Right! could you give me an idea on size of drive's/gearing to go with..It's geared up a little of stock for more torque for the trails right now...not sure what gear it has off hand ,

just bought the sled last weekend.The owner handed me a box with all kind's of crap in it...top stock gear to boot.Part's:: exhuast spring's,spark plug,bolt(exhaust),stock pipe/manifold,And another track witch i think is the factory track that was on the sled..
It has bender pipes/silencer's,carbon tech reed's,cold air kit,bender clutch kit(Primary) helix NOT SURE what one,kwick ajusting rod's on rear suspension,ect! ect! ect!


bone daddy I see you have a 00' sxr 700 have you had any problem's with detonation at idle to 6000 RPMs?? I'M running premium (92 +) octane in mine and noticed it sparknock in the #3 cylinder at idle ,And in the mid range...As far as i know the jug's#2-#3/ piston's been replaced in it last season.. nothing else has been done to it other then jetting the carb's..I Thing it's burning a little rich on the oil side.well guess that's better then to lean!!! I put 150 miles on it last weekend with new plug's (NGK BR9EV's) in it and they are really brown.NOT tan should i just leave it??? or reajust the pump a little??? BY the way I'm running AMSOIL in it..

AMSOIL seem's to keep the valve's cleaner then yama lube.. just my opinion!

THANK'S guy's for the reply's
 

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forgot to mention ebay seems to be a good place to buy a shotgun track see them for $270 with free shipping???? cheap???
 

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hello stenzo !
I'm also A aggressive trail rider/lake runner...my thought of the shotgun track is that it's 2 pounds lighter,with 96 predrilled holes,plus material in the area for the other 96 stud's That I want to use...The ripsay doesn't look as beefy in the stud are,BUT! has more track lug for the loose stuff on the trail/road's...man! very big tossup on track selection.....wish i had the money to buy both ,And test them out,but Am limited on the fund's like most people...

my thought for the extra lug height was to lowwer the front/top suspension mount ,and reajust the preload of the front shock to compinsate for the ski pressure for my setup..
would like to hear from you on your methed's on going about this???thanks for the reply![/b]
I would do the smaller drive gear to give track clearance instead of lowering the suspension mount, it may not handle as well in the trails by moving the mount and you still will have the rubbing problem on the heat exchanger.
I think you might be ok with your current gearing as the larger lugs gives your track an overall larger diameter on a solid ice surface... it may balance itself out. I wish I have lowered my gears to get the torque when I went with larger lugs.
When you’re ready to do the Job you should order all the replacement bearings on the drive line and a replacement gasket for the gear box... Changing the track is a time consuming task, having all the tools keeps the job going... C-clip tool and a wheel puller, also for the bearing retainer for the drive shaft on the clutch side underneath for me was an odd sized torks/allen key (the old one used one and the new the other). These were things that held the job back till I got what I needed. I have the shop manual if you need any specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hello stenzo!
well getting all seal's ,bearing's,clips,O-ring's to do the job..going with the 8 tooth drive's ,and another set of 1" tunnel pertecter's..NO problem on the tool's!! work as a heavy truck machanic
so tool's are no consern to me...

I also herd that I mite have a problem with the taller track lug's rubbing the tunnel ..what give's??? plainning on puttin new 1" pertector's under the tunnel.. Was thinking of shimming the pertector's with part of the old pertector's...thinking! 1/4"-1/2"Is this necessary???

you guy's are great for info!!! thank's agian!
 

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hello stenzo!
well getting all seal's ,bearing's,clips,O-ring's to do the job..going with the 8 tooth drive's ,and another set of 1" tunnel pertecter's..NO problem on the tool's!! work as a heavy truck machanic
so tool's are no consern to me...

I also herd that I mite have a problem with the taller track lug's rubbing the tunnel ..what give's??? plainning on puttin new 1" pertector's under the tunnel.. Was thinking of shimming the pertector's with part of the old pertector's...thinking! 1/4"-1/2"Is this necessary???

you guy's are great for info!!! thank's agian![/b]
Sounds like your all set for tools...
I don't have a problem with the lugs 1.25" rubbing on the tunnel, they did rub on the 2 long plastic protectors mounted on the bottom of the tunnel and the two short metal ones on the heat exchanger. I removed them... but putting studs on changes things. I hope the smaller drives will solve that without the protectors interfering ... make sure the studs aren’t in the same line of the track where protectors are or they will hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like your all set for tools...
I don't have a problem with the lugs 1.25" rubbing on the tunnel, they did rub on the 2 long plastic protectors mounted on the bottom of the tunnel and the two short metal ones on the heat exchanger. I removed them... but putting studs on changes things. I hope the smaller drives will solve that without the protectors interfering ... make sure the studs aren’t in the same line of the track where protectors are or they will hit.[/b]
speaking of stud's?
I was thinking of going with a little shorter stud ??? instead of the 1.175 1/4" penatration...
the stud size i'm thinking of is for a 1.0" track 1.075"..now don't get me wrong!! I know it will reduce penatration alot over a 1/4".(loosing)around 5/16"... so that would put the stud 3/16" over the stud..not much at all!!! with the 1.075 stud's...just not sure????.. on the 1.175's with all the mod's like: removing the heat exchanger protector's...I agree with everyone on the 8 tooth drive's will help reduce OAD.,and move the track back..but how much??? don't know! but a must do in my book...

now for the tunnel pertctor's I know the(outter track) has a raised area around the track clips for added lenght for the pertector's..1/4"-1/2" plus a 1" tunnel pertector would give you a 1.250" to 1.500" clearance..So if it's a.250 raised area on the track clip area.(outter) It would give you (zero) clearance with a 1.250 track w/NO stud's...with a raised area of a .500 it would give you A 1/4" inch w/1.250 track (NO stud's)...that's what i'm figuring out just by mesurment's..( not actaul measurment's on the sled) with a 1.250 lug track under the sled yet!!! by the way just bought a shotgun just waiting on it to get here...HEE! HEE! HEE!

NOTE !!!
this is with the track actualy in rotation,And hitting the tunnel pertector's..As the track stretch's under load,and becomming loose under the tunnel causing it to rub the T. pertector's..

well would like to know anyone's thought's or opinion's on this.. feel free!! good or bad!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hello SRV540!!

just like to let you know i still have my old 83' v-max 540 LC. still running strong with 6200 mile's on it...pretty much my cruser out on the 2 track's/road's.bought it new in 1986 of the floor of my local M. S. D. I was 16 year's old when i bought this sled,And still can't let it go!! had it out
this past weekend...in the baldwin area of MI. . went for a ride to bring back my old school memory's...20 year's ago... man what a ride!!! 200 mile's on it this weekend... 100 on the 99 v-max...

just thought I would say hello!!! ,And thank's for the info on the 99 v-max T.T.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hay guy's update on part's!!!
found a track on ebay for 300.00 buck's "missed the one's for 275.00"..Hope it will be here with in the 2 day's,And watching some 8t Dgears on ebay,also ordered some 1" tunnel petector's,New top gear's for the chain case 20,21 tooth,and a 40 tooth bottom gear all 15 T wide also orede the bearings for the main drive,and a couple of wheel's..

well have to wait on the stud's for now probable in 2 weeks...1.125" yes! I talk myself in to them instead of the 1.075".LOL!

any idea on chain size for the 20,21 (top) w/40 T (bottom) gear's???
Is there any way to mod the front heat exchanger for more clearance???other then removing the pertector's...
also are there any mod's done to the rear heat exchanger???
 

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Discussion Starter #14
forgot to mention ebay seems to be a good place to buy a shotgun track see them for $270 with free shipping???? cheap???[/b]
SRV540!
just bought the shot gun of ebay for 300.00 buck's last friday..It's here,and going in tomarrow..well starting on it anyway's! hope to have it done by mid saterday.bad thing?NO SNOW HERE! Kind of a kick in the butt,But at least it will be ready for the next snow..

I herd they are suppost to get some snow this weekend 12" possible up north in mi. but don't have the extra fund's for the trip..hope it stick's around for the following weekend. HEE! HEE!
I'll be ready!!!

hope all you people have fun..I'll be thinking of YOU ALL while i'm at the shop :(
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have the exact same sled and last year I put on the 1.25” Ripsaw, I am an aggressive trail rider and also do a little off trail riding. I love the track! However I am not able to stud it, going to the 1.25” I had to remove the tunnel and heat exchanger guards so the track would fit. Putting studs on will rip things apart underneath without the gaurds, keep that in mind. I also don’t have any lake crossings in my area so studs weren’t a major concern. If you have any questions with this project let me know I can let you know what I did.[/b]
hay stenzo!
just curius why you took out the tunnle pertector's???? I thought they were there to rub the outter part of the track.where the clips are. to keep the lug's/stud's..(If stud's are installed) from rubbing the tunnel????

OR is that how much clearance you loose with the 1.125 track?? on the yamaha's..
 

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hay stenzo!
just curius why you took out the tunnle pertector's???? I thought they were there to rub the outter part of the track.where the clips are. to keep the lug's/stud's..(If stud's are installed) from rubbing the tunnel????

OR is that how much clearance you loose with the 1.125 track?? on the yamaha's..[/b]
The track was rubbing on the protectors, the cost effective solution for me was to remove the guards... they are there to protect the tunnel from studs and seeing as I don't have studs installed I wasn't too worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The track was rubbing on the protectors, the cost effective solution for me was to remove the guards... they are there to protect the tunnel from studs and seeing as I don't have studs installed I wasn't too worried about it.[/b]

stenzo!
I took the front pertector's out last night..(your right on the rubbing) I also got the chain case,pipe's back together,new track in...
the skid need's some work ! the( H ) arm is broken in three place's...I'm going to fabriacate with a thicker square tubeing for a temp fix...just to get by for the season!!! I was looking at an aftermarket one ,but can't seem to find it now that i need one... :bash:

as for today going to fix the broken h arm,replace the new slider's that i just put on last week..
go through the wheel's and replace some of the bearing's,relube the sled completely...
hope to have it done by 5 Oclock put you know how that goes!! It never work's out that way.LOL!

also hope we get the snow there talking about..not enough to ride on here for even a test run. or 2! or 3! well guess i'll get off my butt,and get going.chat with you all later.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE!
well the progress went slow on finishing up the sled but is complete...new tunnel pertector's ,newly built h arm,replaced 4 wheel bearing's...

for the h arm: I replaced all 4 square tubeing's (thin wall) with a heavy duty (thick wall) tubeing.
this should eliminate any further brakage in the known area's of the week spot of the h arm...even with the added weight it should keep the performance of the front shid in great shape for a long time...

didn't finish until 9:00pm because the rear shock front mount flipped down on me ,and didn't realize it..because of this I couldn't put the last 4 skid bolt's in....So make sure if you come acrossed this problem to check the middle skid mount ,and make sure the mounting shaft is
above the shock,and not below it...took two hour's to figure it out.,and was very frustrated!!!

havn't had a chance to ride do to no snow...going up north next weekend depending on the weather up there,for the weekend!..missed the lake race's in lake city MI. this weekend to work on sled...priority's are a bi-t-ch have to do what you got to do to "getter dun"...well guess i'll keep you posted on the performance of the 99 yamaha v-max sx 700 t/t...

all i have to say is: "go with the snow"(rider's)!!!
 
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