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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I have a 92 Ski Doo Safari LCE (467 liquid twin) that bit the bullet 4 years ago. I decided to pull it from storage and get rid of it this year. I have everything together to rebuild it, but I have no idea how to set up the rotary intake valve. How do you time it?!?!

I can't go by the old one, as it was mangled and I tossed it. Had to replace the shaft that drives it as well, so there is no base line to go by, entire motor in a zillion pieces. A ring had come apart and wedged in the intake (not pretty).

Anyway, I was told that you set the stator side cylinder at TDC and then degree the valve to "x" number of degrees. Anyone know the number? In what direction? In relation to what (which side of intake port)? Thanks guys, and don't worry about tools to set this up, I have access to anything and everything.
 

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Its a time consuming process to try and explain here, and to do, but if you have access to the tools you may be able to get the service manual and go thru that section on rotary vavle timing.
With the manual its detailed step by step.
 When you are done could you let me know the compression? I used to have a LCE as well. It had 18,000km's on it and when I sold it last year it would still give over 200psi when cranking on the starter and 190 on the recoil. It did this from factory when I bought it new. No B.S.!
was told a story from the dealer about why it did that high. And , yes, we used different compression testers. On the electric it can stand the guage, with a 1 ft whip, straight up.
 

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Ralph, you are the man! Thank you very much. I had a good idea what to do, but wasn't 100% sure. One of the mechanics at the shop talked me through it, but being we are a Polaris dealer and he hadn't set up a Doo in about 5 years he couldn't remember exactly how to do it. Thank you again.

Bobber, I will definitely compression test the motor after I get it running. It should do fairly well, there is only 34 miles on the top end. The shop that rebuilt it before after a meltdown forget to fish half a ring out of the lower end, hence this catasrophic failure. My dad used to have an 89 Formula MX, and althogh never tested, it had hella compression. Even with 6000 miles on it the thing was a beotch to pull over. New 700's are easier!

I should (hopefully) have it together next week sometime. I am starting the re-assembly process after work tonight (10 pm), so I don't have tons of time to do this project.
 

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Glad it helped lucky you had a web page thats where I found you e-mail address.                                              

Bobber I have a 85 mx sitting here for sale with 467 in it. I'll do a compression test on that and let you know the numbers.  

Ralph
 

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Hey, small dilema tonight. I left everything on the old rotary shaft (that drives the rotary and water pump) and one of the guys at the shop took the liberaty to take everything off it. Now we don't know the order of the bronze gear, small washer, and small o-ring seal. Got a pic of that? If not I will jsut call the dealer tomorrow and find out. Thanks.
 

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Thanks Rocketman, that should help me out a ton. Now no more guessing which order I took stuff apart in
 

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Well, it'll be a bit on that compression test. I didn't get to start working on the motor till last night, and I was SO close to having the whole thing done when a ring decided it would rather snap than compress. So everything it together but the one jug. Now I gotta wait till Wed or Thur when I can get new rings.

Anyway, another quick question about the rotary. The one I got is 155 degree opening, I was under the assumption this was stock, but when lined up with what is left of the stocker it has probably close to 10 degrees more opening. So how should I time it? I did it just like the pics show and timed it with the mark on the case, but is this right still?
 

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The timing is probably different, but I don't know what it should be. Did you buy the stock P/N? If so, time it like the stock one.
 
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