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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys! First post.... I would include a T&A link but I'm at work... lol

Anyways... I have a 98 FZ670. The y-pipe looks like it's been sprayed with salt water after every ride. I was wondering how I go about removing the nasty rotten ### bolts, so I can get it off. I was going to cut the y pipe as close to the cyl. as possible so I can get a good wrench on it... But I don't want to get shavings in the chamber. So does anyone have a cool trick to get them out? Their isn't much room in there for a good wrench, and the 5mm allen holes are so rusted I don't think I can get a bite. I would try a torx but I can't get a wrench on the ones in the center.

Anyone?

Thanx!!!!
 

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try to like soak it with wd-40 or liquid wrench for a few days, put some on leave it over night, then put some more on the next day leave it over night, then sand it or take a wire brush to the bolts then soak them again for another night and see if that does anything
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah they've been douched a few times.... It seems to be soaking in. I'm gunna try some needle nose vise grips next, but round headed allen socket bolts aren't the easiest to get a grip on :bash:
 

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Get a Dremel tool with a fibre cut off wheel and make parallel flats on the accessible Allen bolts so you can use an open end wrench. Cut the tight ones off and when the y-pipe is off, use vise grips the get the remaining studs out. Patience prevails on this kind of work. If it were me, I'd take the engine out and drill the heads off the bolts. The threads rarely seize in the jugs on that motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's where i was gunna go next with the dremel... but I was just going to chop the heads off and pull the y pipe...ect....like you said. I'll let you guys know how I make out next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok.. old post but new problem....

I got the y-pipe off the cylinders.... I got 3 of 8 bolts out with a wrench and the rest off with a chisel and hammer (knocked off the heads). After taking off the y-pipe I got all but 1 bolt out of the jugs.... first one I grabbed with the robo-locks broke of without hesitation flush in the hole. I thought to myself.... yeah ok, nice job jacka**!!! So I pulled the head and cylinders and took the bad one in to the machine shop for extraction. I drilled the center out of the stud in the Mill and tapped an EZ out in there..... so far so good..... Got on it with the tap handle and.... SNAP! Apperiently I didn't drill enough of the meat out of the stud to releave the tension on the threads. So now I have a hardened EZ out stuck in there as well.


Before I put it back together I'm just going to pull the bottom end and do the 670 mods TD has posted in "s-2000 sleds"...

now to my piont....

My father can get me a set of full carbide drill bits from his shop. I'm going to try to drill the rest of the stud out up to the minor dia. of the threads, so I can just pick out the remaining threads of the stud (what's left).

here's my question...

If I can't get the rest out, would I be ok to use only 3 of the 4 bolts that are supposed to hold the y-pipe on? That would be 7 out of 8 in all... keep in mind that I don't want exhaust goo all over the engine comparment.
 

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I would suggest the 2 P's method.

PATIENCE and PERSISTANCE.

It will leak and you'll only end up regretting it every time you look under the hood.

Do it right. I know it's frustrating, but you'll be glad you did.

Have you tried applying heat to the cylinder?

Good luck.

Jeff
 

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As Jeff said P&P. I have run into this on many rebuilt Sea Doo motors where the idiots who rebuild them cheap out on the bolts by not using stainless steel. The best way to remove the busted bolts and the HSS (high speed steel) extractor is to get a cobalt or carbide millig bit for your Dremel tool and slowly mill out the broken bits then re-tap the holes (Heli Coil at worst case). I've had to do this with broken mixture screws on boat carbs so it's do-able. If you can find some clapped out jugs where the liners are mangled but the casings are good you can swap the liners with your good ones using a house hold oven and an ice cold rag. Try the prior method and if not successfull, I'll go into more detail on liner replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #12






Yeah I had the propane on it pretty good... It just seems that this perticular stud doesn't like me... :tongue:

Living in a family of machinists taught me not to be a hack :D

I agree with you TD about the heli-coils..... last resort

I futher agree with you about the stainless..... I work in the food industry so I only work with stainless..... mostly 304/314/316. Over time I've began to have a place in my soul for stainless steel. I love it!

I have a good collection of 304 hardware started now. It's the only hardware I use now.... just don't forget to break out with the nickel anti-sieze before you install ;) Another trick I've learned is to wire wheel the threads on all the bolts before installing to take off the tiny burrings on the thread tips, which promotes gawling. This way your not taking all the alum with it on the way back out, if you have to remove them. I learned that one the hard way a few times.

Well... I'm getting some carbide end mills from the ol'man tommorrow, so I can cut that sucker out. There is only about 1/4 inch of ez-out in there so it should be an "EZ" one to do... :lmao:


Another thing that I wanted to tell you guys is that my brother is now anodizing parts up to the size of a small engine if anyone is interested in getting some color on their blocks or something. I was going to do my block and PV castings to match the sled and the jugs and head another color, maybe green or something. He has all kinds of colors to choose from. I will post pics of what it looks like when done. www.baldturbofreak.com if anyone wants to fish around on the site to check out some other work we are doing.

Thanx yet again TD!!!! you too Jeff! ~ Ben Gifford
 

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Hey Ben, I checked out your website.
The video in the Vett, you were right.

I POOPED MY PANTS. LOL
Sweet ride. So what did he blow at the end?

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
that turbo was engineer'd on the stock lt1 & clutch... needless to say it didn't take him long to bust all the ring lands off all the pistons and weld the plates together on the clutch...LOL

Anyways the lt1 has been stripped and redone with 4340 forged crank and eagle rods. The pistons were a custom design of my brothers. He has a friend at wiseco, so he had them made by them. They are some piece of work....built for endless turbo punishment. But not too long ago he spun it past 9k and did a bit of damage. He stripped it back down and is putting a couple GT28R's on there instead of the T-82. All will be well soon enough....hehe

That Red Camaro is a different story.... That is one sick ride!!! Twin GT45R's..... each side of that little 406 LS1 is making almost 700hp. The t-56 was not worth shifting all the time so they put a 2000hp powerglide in it. I've never seen a 4000lb dyno spin up to 170mph so fast let me put it that way.

It's easy to see why turbo's are so feared on the strip. That's why I'm building the turbo banshee, I need to feel that power! but I'm not rich enough to build a car yet...
 

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weld it out with a tig . just build a colum up from the broken stud just slightly less dia with a tough rod about 3/8 " high and then weld a T on top .just back out with a cresent wrench going back and forth, the heat from welding will be enough to brake it loose . this will save the original threads . if you cant just send it to me and I will do it for you for the cost of shipping . Mark
 

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A ball socket wrench will help.[/b]
They're the last thing I'd try. I've had to finish up on line repairs (line down & white shirts galore) when someone broke the ball off in the socket head.

We got the remaining socket head cap screws removed, ground off the offending head, then used a pair of Vise-Grips to remove the "stud".

Yes, I've seen under the hoods of some poorly maintained sleds & it's a crime. And people wonder why they can't get much for the sled when they try to sell it.
 
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