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I put a clutch kit in my 01' 800 and i don't like it, so i am putting stock components back in and was wondering what poundage my secondary should be set at with stock white spring?
 

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Start around 22 lbs. Some say it needs to be higher using stock calibration.
 

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I too went back to the white spring as well but using a different helix.I ran mine from 20-24lbs depending on conditions.After almost 5000km on the spring it finally started to bind a bit towards the end of the season.
Does anyone know the exact fix for these things
 

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How are you guys doing with clutch heat on your sleds?  I have run several settups this year and am still generating a ton of heat.  Current settup is Thundershift arms with 7.6 grams at each hole, hollow pins, 195/293 primary spring, straight 51 dalton helix, white doo secondary spring at 19 lbs, 27 top gear. 067 doo belt.  I certainly don't need a muffpot, I could cook a porterhouse right on my clutch face.
 

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lego - Your setup sounds real close to stock. I say that the 27 tooth is a little hard to pull out of the hole with the 51 helix, causing slip.
 

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Thanks guys for the ideas.  Idooski, do you have some tuning time with the thunderarms?  My problem with adding more weight to the outer location is when I had Cudney's helix and spring, I had to click up to get 7800-7900 on my digital tach.  If I add more weight to the outer position, I am going to end up at clicker 5 or 6.  My other question is if 51 is too much helix to pull the 27 gear, Cudney's helix in his recommended thundershift settup is more than 51, and he also recommends the 27 gear.  Any ideas?  I am truely chasing my tail with this sled.  I have a 25 gear, and of course the stock 26, should I be back there?
 

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WOW!!! Someone around here actually knows how to agree with something!! (Seriously LOL)  

I have talked to guys running upwards of 60 deg initial angle, but they suck pretty hard out of the hold. One needs allot of engagement to make it work. This was on bare ice also.

Personally, I think a 50/44 works well with the stock primary setup. The 44 is a little flat, but these motors can fall on their face upstairs with only 7800-8000RPM on tap. I find that to run some MPH, it needs to be shallow. The guy running the 60/50 I ran into this winter would get me  1 to 1 1/2 sleds out of the hole, but when my sled would fall in to the 47 spot on the helix, I would really pull on him. Ski Tip ahead at the end.

I am running a 48/42 with pipes. It feels good to hear it pipe out running that helix. It needs to be geared about 25/43 with the pipes, but it does pull upstairs!!
 

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The necessity of the helix can rely on the amount of traction. I can tell you right now, picked and hooked up, you definatly know if the helix is too steep. She will fall so flat you think you just stalled the engine.
 

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I found that with the straight doo 50 helix and the 24 top gear
and white sec spring i had to run between 22-24lbs on the sec. or i experienced some belt slipage and extra heat.I agree with the others that a 27 top and a 51 may be a  little much and also depending on your weight that may effect it as well.
I actually liked the 50 over the 50/48 and i weigh 230lbs.But i guess it's a personal preference
 

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I would try  a 48-44 or a 50-47, with the beige spring, that white spring is too inconsistant.  Try it and tell us what happens.
 

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My first settup at the beginning of the year was a black ice 43/40 with the beige spring @ 19lbs., and my sled was slower than stock from hole to mid to top.

800mxz, you are running that shallow of a helix due to your heelclickers, correct?
 

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I am actually running the TRA as of right now. I went to the pipes recomendations for setup upon starting to tune the clutching in. Just ran out of snow.


If the temps are hot, I suggest less gear or less angle. I messed around with the 27 sllot this year, ended up liking the 26 with the single pipe, 24 with the twins.
 
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