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Discussion Starter #1
just wanted to know if i am using the right drive and driven clutch combo. please, someone that would know about this setup. some of you have seen my kart on here with this setup and if not i am going to place a pix of the setup on here. when i got the sled it did not have the driven clutch so i bought one off someone that told me that it would work. i have been having problems with the clutch slipping and fixed the drive clutch but when i was out today after a while it started to slip and when i told a friend that rides with me to follow me and see if he could see if the clutches were working right he told me that the drive clutch was not closing all the way, that it was just closing half way and that the driven clutch seemed to not be working the way it should. he said that the belt seemed to ride up and down on the sheave or pulleys or what ever you call them and that the belt was smoking off the start. while i was riding it, i tried to look at it, and to me, it seemed that the belt or driven clutch was not opening right. i do not know what could be going on here. i just thought maybe that the drive clutch and driven clutch are not compatible ( do not belong with each other )so here is a pix of the setup and if you need the part number let me know were it is on the driven clutch and i will try to get it. thank you so much. it seems that this is the only thing that is giving me problem for this thing to run 100%. user posted image
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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using a marker put a line on the clutch face from center outward the belt should rub the mark off where it rides. slipping secondary , I would increase the preload to try and stop it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well,i have tried the marker deal on the driven clutch. the mark is rubbed off but not all the way down to the bottom telling me that its not going all the way down making it slip. and i did increase the tension on the driven clutch. that helped some. when i went out this weekend i noticed that when i took the kart out for the first few laps it ran 100% with very little slipping. i know i will get some slipping at take off. but then when i stopped for a while to relax and give the kart a rest. the second time around it started to slip right off the back. had my friend follow and he noticed that the drive clutch was not closing all the way. like half way. i took the clutch off and apart and seen no problem with it. then when i put it on the traile,r i jacked it up and started it, gave it gas and the clutches worked fine. drive closed and driven opened. i don't know what i can do. its driving me nuts. i'm getting tired off taking off these clutches. this is the only problem that i have with it. engine being from 1976 sound really good and feels real strong. hope some one has the cure. thanks.
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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so the clutches are real hot? should be from the slipping. I am assuming they are aligned the way they should be?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
let me ask a question.
if the driven clutch is binding up and not opening like its suppose to, would that make the drive clutch not close all the way? just a thought, because since i see no problem with the drive clutch, well, that i can see, then maybe it could be the driven clutch that might be the problem. HELP!!!!
 

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My vote's for a gear reduction in your final drive. Then tune the clutches to work better with one another for your setup. This would help with the belt slippage and give you faster takeoffs. If your clutches work without a load (off the ground) then there can't be something bound in the clutches preventing them from opening.
 

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I'm gunna have to agree with awol, if they open all the way under no load. then there is too much load when moving to open all the way. I would gear down.also if they are slipping there is too much load and not enough weight to pinch the belt. Gear down and add weight to the primary. Also add more spring tension to the secondary.
Later
 

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You're saying you're running an 18:54 ratio? That's better than I thought from the picture you have here and the "belt slippage" you told of earlier.

At 8000 engine RPM, not including overdrive of the CVT, you should be around the 60mph mark with 8" o.d. wheels.

Now I'm betting a newer/different drive clutch would help you. What's on there reminds me of an old moto-ski or similar and a different clutch with better tech may be the best cure?

What exactly do you have there? A 340?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yes, its a 1976 rotax 340cc engine. and yes i am running a 18 jackshaft sprocket and a 54 final drive axle sprocket. that would give me a 3 to 1 gear ratio. but what gets me is when i took it out and it ran strong for like 6-7 laps then i shut down to wait for the friend to come , unloaded him and we started up took off and then thats when it started to slip and did not stop. is their something that ether got hot or cooled that changed things. today i took the drive and driven to a snowmobile shop, i wanted to get some new parts for the driven and just took the drive with. the tech said that the drive looked good, wheels looked good bushings looked good and weights the same. but the driven? well that was another story, the plastic runners were shot, and were the runners fit into, it looked like someone had at one time ran it without the runners but with the new runners it should be ok. and that peace that ride on the runner was not looking good. he said it should have a flat surface were it would ride on the runners but they were a bit rounded. and the bushings were ok. SO i don't know if any of that would cause slipping but. all i did was put new runners on it. so what he recommended was to put the spring in the 6th hole turn it 1/4 and see what that would do for me. he thought i should get a replacement driven clutch but right now i need to spend the money on other things, you know what i mean? so i just helped it a bit and see what happens saturday. i don't know what else to do. i guess if i still get slipping i will have to go with the gear reduction. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok guys,
well i put the clutch together today. first i was putting the driven clutch together and snapped the runners pins off $13 down the drain, went and bought another set, put the clutch together and took it out for a ride behind my house, like, 2 1/2 blocks long and back. what happen this time was that the clutch slipped at takeoff but once it engaged, WOW, torque from engagment till i let go of the gas. unreal power. that was with the 18/54. so then i called the snowmobile shop and told the guy what it had done and he told me to change from the #6 setting on the driven to #3 and see what that would do. he said it need more preload. did that and it help a bit, so then i changed to 16/54 but it seemed to still slip till engagement. i'm just afraid if i go too low with the ratio that the engine would scream too much and not go anywere. but right now i am going to take it out tomorrow and see what happens. but i'll tell you what for a 1976 340 engine it pulls hard. but no slipping at engagement (topend) before i had slipping start to stop. all i did was change the runners. hope it holds up to the test. and a test it will be. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well guys. i beleive i found my problem. when i put my driven clutch back together i had turned the moveable sheave clockwise insted of counterclockwise. what a BIG differance that made. now i can get my gear ratio back were it was. again, thanks. now what i have to do is see if it holds up to its fix. we'll see. and i'll keep you all posted. thanks.
 
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