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Discussion Starter #1
I've been snowmobiling in the Baffin Island area of Canada for 15 years and have always been able to fix my own machines but now I stumped. I can't get my 2001 340 Touring to start. I've tried all the regular stuff. Cleaned the pump and lines ( engine is getting lots of fuel ) new plugs ( several times ) I could not see any spark at the plugs so I put a new ignition unit on it but no difference. It tries to go but no way. I believe it is an electrical problem but don't really know where to look next.

Any suggestions ?????
 

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Do you have a tether if so make sure that it is tight . Also do your lights try to come on as your starting it? PS Welome to the SW sight.
 

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Do you have a tether if so make sure that it is tight . Also do your lights try to come on as your starting it? PS Welome to the SW sight.[/b]

Thanks for the welcome. I just wish it was under better circumstances.

1) - if a tether is what I think it is no I do not have one.

2) - yes the lights try to come on. They seemed dim but I tried my other machine ( it runs ) and they seem the same. But when I check the plugs while pulling the starter there does not seem to be any spark ( new CDI unit )

3) - this problem started as I was driving along. It started losing power and just quit. Never to start again.
 

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Have you checked wires to the key? And is it maybe flooded? Try to take one plug out hit the kill switch pull it over 3 or 4 times see if gas comes out, if so do the same to other plug put in dry plugs then try let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you checked wires to the key? And is it maybe flooded? Try to take one plug out hit the kill switch pull it over 3 or 4 times see if gas comes out, if so do the same to other plug put in dry plugs then try let me know.[/b]
There is no key, the switch on every 340 in town has been broken by kids trying to steal machines. It's hot all the time I just use the kill button and chain the machine to my house. I have tried several new plugs. They get wet so there is fuel going in but I can take them out of this machine and put them in my other and it fires right up. I live in an area where everyone goes through 50 plugs a year because of the temps. So I'm used to that problem. The local people put them on the stove burner and dry them out.

The engine tries to start but just will not. I'm convinced that there is not enough juice going to the CDI unit but never having this problem before I just don't know why. What produces the juice to run the CDI unit ? Is there a coil or something INSIDE the engine ? The wires from the CDI unit join into wires that appear to come from inside the base of the engine.
 

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Yes there is what they call a stator inside the engine. The is what makes the spark essentially. I wouldnt just go throwing parts at it though. The stator can be expensive to replace. First, make sure all of your electrical connections are good and tight. Next, you should be able to unplug the kill switch from the wiring harness. Unplug it and check to see if you have spark. Some of the Indys have a safety switch built into the throttle housing. You should be able to unplug it also from the wiring harness. Unpluging these switches eliminates them, making sure that they are not causing your problem. Check this and post back what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Believe it or not I had a "dream" last night about the throttle safety switch. I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit ( -30C right now ) and I'm going to have a go at it. I had a Yamaha years ago that I had to bypass the switch on but I had forgotten about it. Keep your fingers crossed.

Snowmobiles are a way of life up here. We use them from late Sept until early July. When their broken your walking - no fun at all
 

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If you were driving along and it quit, I doubt it is the safety switch. Even so, you can check that byhaving someone hold the throttle so that at least one of the switches is depressed - you can see one and feel the other in the throttle lever assembly. They both open an otherwise grounded system so depressing one or both will unground it. I would make sure there is decent spark when you know the switches are working.

The way the machine died while being operated, I almost think the system found its own ground though. THere are several wires coming out from the back side of the engine just behind the recoil starter. One bundle has yellow and brown wires in it and powers lights and other non-engine things. The other bundle plugs into the CDI bundle of three wires. There is one more wire, a black one, which is the engine ground. That wire is the one connecting to all the engine grounding systems: key, throttle switches, kill switch, etc. If you unplug that black wire, the engine will not be grounded. (I wonder if that wire is actually worn and grounding on something?) If you know the machine is not going to do a "runaway" when it starts - (the throttle works properly and everything, slides not stuck open etc), you can try to start the engine with that balck wire unplugged. That essentially hotwires the engine so you can steal it - don't tell your local kids! If the engine won't go then due to lack of spark, you'll know you have a problem in the major electrical components. If you do get positive spark then, you'll know you have some other type of problem.

It sounds like you have enough fuel. Might there be too much - it won't run then either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First of all I would like to thank everyone for their help. I really didn't expect this much response.

Second of all I took the machine inside today and after warming up for an hour or so and a fresh set of plugs it started. But the Happy Dance was short lived. It just didn't seem right and on the 1/2 mile trip home the engine started grinding and stopped. At least one or two blown pistons. I can turn the primary clutch over with one hand no problem - no compression.

So now it's decison time rebuilt or junk it. I'll sleep on it over the weekend. Thanks again.
 

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At least open it up and see. One good thing about the little 340s is that they are quite a bit less expensive to work on than are bigger engines. They are also very simple. I'd be curious to know why that one went. I have a 91 340 engine apart right now. It's the first "blown" 340 I've actually been inside of. This one dumped one side after the guys riding it rode it with a cracked oil line. The oil tank was also about empty. Apparently it was getting some oil even though there was clearly plenty of air getting through also - until the tank went dry. I bought the machine for $150 from the young guys who had last ridden it. It still had compression - on one side- but I think they had a clue what had happened. The body is in great shape so I have no complaints. She'll go again with a 0.010" oversized piston in it. Ironically, the other side piston looks pristine. Gotta love some things about the little 340.

BTW, have you seen next year's rendition of the 340? They call it the Transport and it has a 1 1/4" track, Camoplast skis, no passenger backrest, no speedo, etc. Kind of an interesting "work" model.
 

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I had a similar problem earlier this year with now spark and start. I found out that the kill swith wiring had worn open with the vibrations. Had to repair it and it works fine now. Posting a little too late, but figured I'd add an afterthought for future reference. Sorry to hear about the engine. Where abouts in Baffin?
 

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Well I opened it up on the weekend. What a *#@&** mess. Pistons look like they went through a blender and liners almost as bad. Even though the oil tanked "seemed" to be going down obviously it lacked a bit of lubrication. This machine rarely leaves town and is operated in all kinds of weather from 0 to -50C. Every other year I always mixed a bit of oil with my gas in the really cold weather but this year I got lazy and depended on the oil pump. Bad move. The oil pump will be disconnected and pre - mix only from here on.

So it is a re sleve job ( probably ) and new pistons ........... lesson learned.

Where in Baffin ? I live in a little Inuit community called Igloolik. Been here 15 years doing plumbing & heating work ( a very popular guy ). It's getting a bit stale and maybe time to move back to good old Nova Scotia.
 

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A rebore is pretty straightforward for any competent small engine shop properly equipped. You can get pistons for oversized cylinders in the 340 in 10 and 20 thousandths oversized persuasions from Polaris. In the case of my recent 340 overhaul, the one side had a cracked oil line which still allowed oil through - I'm not sure how - until the oil tank got too low. Even so, that horrible looking cylinder "cleaned up" with a fixed hone by taking just a few thousandths out. I have had some luck simply honing one size over and am going to try finish hone this one as soon as I get the new piston and rings.
 

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The clyinders are on their way to a shop in Quebec. They do these things all the time so I'm sure they'll treat me fair. They supply everything you need to reassemble. The reason I said a possible resleve job is because the liners are baaaad. But we'll see.
 
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