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Discussion Starter #1
anyone have any pics of their studded track inside? Im curious to see how tight everyone goes when installing their studs. I have installed lots of studs and try and tighten every sled the same. which is close to flush,not sucked way in. and other peoples I have seen with the stud not even started to be sucked into the track.
how far do you go.
 

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Had the dealer put mine on when I bought it all the studs are sucked in enough that the backing is almost flush with the track. Is that correct? I don’t have a clue.
 

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Thats a good question! I wonder how tight? so that it will not cut into the track. Would it come with a torque spec?

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Discussion Starter #4
thats how I put mine in,has less noise or vibe etc. when the idlers ride over them.
Ive never had one rip through... but I dont ride hard on hard pack or ice either.the dumb people around here hammer their sleds across roadways and then later whine because they ripped out a stud. Id like to see some pics to see whats the most common tighning
being done when the studs are installed. I know when I bought my 500 I had to tighten every stud! the guy had them just touching the track and it wasnt to kind of a ride :dazed:
 

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I always try and get the inside stud backer flush with the track or as close as I can. This not only makes the track quieter as the studs roll past the idlers, but any raised surface of the stud tears the crap out of idler wheels, especially Ski-doo and Yamaha idlers with only the thin rubber edge on an aluminum idler wheel.
I have never had a problem with tightening them down and tearing the track. A more common prob with tearing studs out is square backers that are placed with the square corners pointing up or down track. This gives a sharp corner that is more likely to cause a tear out.

Back in my younger days one of the dealerships I worked at would only install round backers for just this reason. I typically run square on all my sleds and have almost no problem with them as long as they are placed correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I always try and get the inside stud backer flush with the track or as close as I can. This not only makes the track quieter as the studs roll past the idlers, but any raised surface of the stud tears the crap out of idler wheels, especially Ski-doo and Yamaha idlers with only the thin rubber edge on an aluminum idler wheel.
I have never had a problem with tightening them down and tearing the track. A more common prob with tearing studs out is square backers that are placed with the square corners pointing up or down track. This gives a sharp corner that is more likely to cause a tear out.

Back in my younger days one of the dealerships I worked at would only install round backers for just this reason. I typically run square on all my sleds and have almost no problem with them as long as they are placed correctly.[/b]
I like the round for that reason but the square seem to cover more area,and like you said I just make sure the square ones are placed correct and they seem fine on my other sled.
I think that was one of my big noises in my 500 when the studs were sitting on top of the inside track (not sucked down) and going across the cogs etc. sounded horrible.:eek:hmy:
 

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With metal backers. 85 in/lb max.
With plastic/nylon backers. 35 in/lb max.

Or check the stud / backer manf. website for exact installation instuctions.
 

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I think the instructions that came with mine said something like 15-18lbs/in
Unfortuantely, my torque wrench STARTS at 20...

This is with plastci backers. When I had to replace all my plastic backers, I used my air ratchet (as suggested by others) and used a very low air pressure. Then snugged every one about the same by hand. The stud head is set just slightly below track level.
 

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I've got mine at 10lbs/ft or 120in/lbs with round backers. haven't had a problem- yet. But I do re-tighten every season - twice, if I ride enough.
 
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