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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a hard time deciding whether to stud my track or buy a new 1.25 inch track for my 700 or leave it stock. People tell me not to expect much more then 2 years out of a studded track so maybe the $700+ for the 1.25 is worth it. I found the back end loose last year although the conditions weren't the best. Pros and cons for both would be appreciated
 

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Charlo you can get a 1.25" for cheaper than that, may i recomend a model#9818 with the staggered paddle for maximum traction. BTW question like that usually start P#$Sing matches around here
IMHO i like the paddle over studs as i like to ride in snow and deep powder, as i do not care for icy conditions but sometimes they cannot be avoided.
The 1.25 will make it feel studded on all conditions except ice.
It will also improve braking.  It will also out accelerate studs except for on ice
. I put on over 7000kms on my 9818. It held up well to lots of abuse for 2 low snow winters.  Lady K studded her 02 mxz 700 last year withh 144 trail studs down the middle in a long V pattern , no studs on the outer edges. The track held up well for 5500+ kms last year of high speed running, no ripping or tearing. IT was much safer on ice, but you were still able to slide in the corners. sorry about the long post .
 

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I would go with the 1.25, unless you find yourself on ice ALOT. Studs require way more maintenance than a 1.25 when all is said and done.
 

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Have you tried Skidoo.com catalog site? You can order on line. After market tracks you can find in your sled magazine in which they have a web site usually listed for pricing and shipping.

Since you live North of me Charlo, we almost sled in the same conditions. Go with the 1.25" track. I use this on my 800 MXZ. Last season, a friend of mine has 190+ studs on his stock track and I have none. Out of the hole I had him very easily, but the Mach Z does pull away eventually. I find at high speeds 90+ mph the track sticks very well to the snow. I have ridden last years 600 MXZ with the standard track at full throttle on a five mile logging road (not used in the winter for logging) and found it to be squirley but my 1.25" stuck well on the way back. This lug is the largest you can have on a sled for studs. So if you want more traction, studs are still an option on 1.25" lug. So go for the larger lug first. Ride the season with them and decide afterwards.  I ride throughout New England and will be up in Quebec as well this season. So you and I do see the same snow but little if any ice at all.

Doo
 
Z

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Studs or a 1 1/4" Track?   That's Easy,  Take the 1 1/4" track,  Unless you want to do what I did and put a 1 1/2" on your sled!
 
 


ZMachMan
 

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www.tracksusa.com  Get one for around $350.00 to $400.00.
Skidoo tracks are not true 1 1/2 but 1.400 that's almost 1/8 inch shy of 1 1/2 plus they have serrated teeth that are about 1/4 deep that wear off after a winter or two so next thing you know you got a 1 1/8 lug track.
I put a Cat 1.600 track on mine with full open windows and never had a heat problem all last winter so try to stay away from closed windows if you can but that is getting real hard to do.
I know Bruce has some 1 3/8 cat tracks like my 1.600 because my buddy put one on his Mach1. Bruce also says cat/camoplast tracks are the best OEM you can buy because they are built to Cat specs.

The 1 1/4 is a good choice if you still want studs but down the middle only. Not sure if Doo has a 1 1/4 OEM?
 

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Depends on where you ride. I have a 1.25 Camo on my sled, and I have been riding sleds for a long time with no accidents. The 1.25 hook up great, but they do nothing for braking or cornering. If you are riding in anywhere but optimum snow conditions, you should have some sort of studs.

If you see icy a icy corner, you could have a 3" paddle, it won't make you stop or turn in a corner. I love my 1.25 when the trails let me take advantage of it, but I was off trail more times last year than all previous years combined. No accidents, but interesting off-trail excitement!

The bigger lugs will get you confident with the traction, but it is that one corner that was wet one day when it was warm and froze over-nite.

If done correctly, your track will be just fine. My XC600 has the orig track and is just fine, with 3000k miles on it, studded for 4 years, no prob.

When I mean studs, you do not need 192 or 240. On that sled, 96 down the middle will be adiquate for confident handling on icey conditions. I am making my point know, casue I scared the heevy jeevys out of myself a few times last year. Like the other guys are saying, it hooks great, just won't stop when you REALLY need it.
 

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I have an 1 1/4 on my 2002 600 xc/sp I love it!!! It hooks up nice in packed snow and it kicks ### in powder. Plus it doesnt tear up the concrete in your garage..
 

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I learned the hard way how not to stud a track. The first time I put about 100 in my SKS track, centre and outside, 3/8" past lug. BIG MISTAKE! Track lasted 2 years, ripped whole sections out of track. I bought a new track and re-studded with about the same number, this time all in the centre and protruding about 1/8" past lugs. This track has not lost a stud (bent a few) in 3 years and no track damage. Its all in how you do it and what you expect from it.
 

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My vote is for the 1.25" as well. I ran a 9833 (?) last
season and loved it. It had all open windows but the only
thing that I question about it was the ribbed track cleats.
 

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the 9818 is a great track and very durable(1.25)one guy i ride with had a little over 14000kms(on and off trail use) on it and it was still in good shape,i think royal sells them for around $620 cdn.
 

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im going to put studs on my mxz 600, how many do you guys think i should put on, both numbers are going to be down the middle, NO outside ones, shoudl i put 96 or 144 on??  how much worse will the acceleration be with 144 studs then 96, and will any top end be lost??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm still not sure....we had a lot of ice last year!? I've heard that the doo tracks don't like studs and I want it to last more then a couple of seasons. (I usually ride around 3000mi a season.) What number of studs are recomended up the middle? I've heard it is as bad to understud as over stud.  
 

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As I scanned through the loud pipe thread, somthing became very apparent to me, particuarly after reading machmans comments about how he doesn`t need or have a reason to go to busy, populated, or other areas where loud pipes would be "out of place" and if my paraphrasing is not accurate, I hope my point will be. I have a real loud piped bike and I gotta tell you , when I want to be quiet, it sometimes doesent seem like I`m quiet enough, my point? Dahmn , some of the websters in this worldwide forum have alot different perspective on EVERYTHING because of there enviorment...... so what the freeg does that have to doo with studs? , well, if I got a couple of inches of fresh ice on the ground i`m happy, snow? whats that? I think michigan gets that stuff.... I would take the studs, but for you, who knows?
 

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I ran a 1 3/8 stiff paddle on my zr500 last winter and two friends with 600s ran them also.  They gave us great hookup on hard pack and trails.  The little extra length seemed to help in the little bit of powder we get to.  If you ride any ice at all though from what we found i would stud it.  My track is about the worst thing to have when you hit ice its much worse then my orginal but I don't ride ice so its not a problem for me.  I have heard of guys running shorter studds then the lug length then when they get on ice the lugs bend and the studs catch.  I bought my full open window, full clip 1 3/8 for $500US
 
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