Give it to your dealer and pick up a new ride in the fall
Seriously, put gas stabilizer in the fuel tank, fog the carbs, oil the pipe, and cover it with a sheet BEFORE you put the cover on.I wouldnt leave too much gas in it either as next season you will be burning old fuel.RedRocket800 leaves the gas full, I dont like to burn old fuel.
Be sure when you bring it out next season you either take it to the dealer to prep it or if you know how CLEAN YOUR CARBS, this will make a world of difference.The other gear heads in here can probobly tell you a few more handy tips. Good luck
Don't forget to grease it! That will force any of the water thats accumalated in the various areas out to prevent rust.
Your suspension, especially steering will love you for it.
My sleds are usually treated to a trip to the car wash for a good clean up. After drying, a good heavy coat of WD-40 is the last thing they get till fall. A full gas tank will prevent condensation from forming while in storage.
Heres how I doo it been dooin this way for years.
Wash the sled inside and out.
Give it a good coat of wax.
Grease and lube every thing that's greasable.
Fog the engine untill it dies, also running it out of gas at the same time.
Drain the fuel tank.
spay some kind of rust preventative on the enging and pipes or anything that might rust.
jack it up, front and rear.
cover it up.
Now pray to the snow gods we have a better winter then this last one!
I always fill my sled right to the brim with gas. This prevents condiensation. I also add stable which keeps the gas in good condition.
Next season when you bring it out you should take it easy for the first 100km or so to give your engine time to work in again and to burn of the old gas which probably is still in good conditon.
ALso fog the carbs and fog the cylinders. (Do not turn fuel shut of valve of and drain the carb.) You will get deposits in the carbs. Just put stable in the gas and run some of it through then just stop the engine.
Then i take some WD-40 and put a heavy coat of it on the engine and pipes. THen i close the vents on the front of the machine.
Then i stuff up the exhaust pipes with steel wool keeping mice out of it. Then i cover it up and dont touch it till fall.
For sure use fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, and run the machine for a few minutes after you put it in the tank. Then spray some fogger in the carbs and I also spray it in the spark plug hole. Be sure to lift the rear end off the ground, and support it some how. Put a cover on it. Grease all the fittings, and you should be set. OH yeah, fill the tank up too.
i do all the above and don't drain the gas out of carbs though , use stabilizer fuel so gas won't gel in carb bowl. the seals and o-rings dry out and will crack from being to dry and condensation builds up fast in the bowl because of the small volume they hold.
Heres what I do:
*Fill up w/gas and fill oil injection to the top. (gas is siphoned in the fall).
*Add the proper amount of stabil.
*Wash and degrease the entire sled.
*Grease the entire chassis.
*Run the engine long enough to be sure the entire fuel system is treated.
*Fog the engine/ remove the plugs spray each cyl. w/fogging oil.
*Install store rites (added security against moisture for 10 bucks).
*Put steel wool in the pipe.
*Drain and refill chain case.
*Remove drive belt.
*Put the lift under it(so the whole suspension is hanging).
*Loosen track tension.
* If possible remove any spring tension on suspension.
*Spray exhaust and any parts which may rust w/wd-40.
*Wax the sled.
*Put a sheet over it, then the cover.
The whole reason of supporting the suspension is to get the tension off the shocks and springs, also to keep the track from rotting and cracking. Let me ask you this (what makes the front shocks any different then the rear shocks)? You normally won't notice a shock graudally lose it's charge or mixing, untill you know someone who had a few bad ones replaced, and then they can tell the difference, and there is a big difference. If there the rechargeable they are all roughly the same price ( front to rear). Spend the $0.50 on a few concrete blocks and cover them with somthing and place them under the bulk head so the whole suspension hangs freely. Store it right! Shock recharge a least $25.00 a peice (No parts x 4 shocks = $100.00). concrete blocks $0.50 a piece. Seized motor (who knows). Fogging oil $3.00. Gummed up carbs at least $40.00, stabil $3.00. The list goes on. First big snow fall and your buddies sled wont run ( PRICELESS ). Take the time and store it right you won't regret it.
Fogging is spraying engine storage spray into the carb or carbs
and this in turn puts a coating on the vital engine parts.I normaly add a little oil into each cyl as well,and then turn motor over by hand a few times as well.Hope this helps tattoo.
To drain or not to drain.
I drain my carb's and fuel tank for two reson's
#1 I don't like old gas! gas has a shelf life of apprx. 45 days. adding stabalizers will help stop the gas from gumming up, does not keep the gas fresh, it still loose's it octain rating as it sits. With the carb's drained you will not get any deposits forming because the carb(s) are empty. What is going to cause the deposits?
#2 safty, I store my sled in my garage, wich is under my house no need to have 40lt of gas sitting around.
If you have to store your sled in a area that moisture is a problem them for sure fill you tank and use a stabalizer.
The mosture in fuel tanks is more of a problem with boats being stored outsde during winter months, not with a sled in your garage over the summer months.
Bottom line doo what ever works for you, both way are acceptable.
If you are going to fiil your tank, I would drain and fill with fresh gas i before you you use the machine next winter.
Nothing will hole a piston faster then a batch of bad gas!
Well, here's what I have done over the years. I drain the gas and use it in my weedwacker and lawnmower. Put oil in the cyls, remove the drive belt, driven cl. (so it won't rust to the jackshaft) put the cover on and put it away. Well as the gas evaporated in the carbs the bacteria would start to grow (you know that green stuff) and that would plug up the pilot jets. Must clean caebs. Pain in the a$$. These older sleds had the oil injected into the int. port (Cats) so there wasn't any oil left in the carbs. That oil will not allow that green stuff to grow when the gas evaporates. I called Standard Oil Co. in Texas and they said that fresh gas has a shelf life of (1) year. I looked at a lot of different oils and they all have rust inhibators already in there oils. Here's what I do now since Arctic has started injecting oil into the fuel pump.
1) Drain most of the gass out.
2) Remove the drive belt and driven cl.
3) Cover the mach.
4) Put it on the trailer and store them both.
1) Add fresh gas.
2) Install the drive belt and driven cl.
3) Remove the plugs and pull the eng. over 20 times (fills the
4) Install the plugs, put the choke on and pull the eng. over
(4) times and shes ready to go!!!!
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