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Discussion Starter #1
First off id like to say im new here, i had been snowmobiling before but never owned my own until last year, i love it, its all i think about when the snow is on the ground. I also did do a search before posting, but didnt find what i was looking for...

I have a 94 polaris indy 500 efi, the rear suspension currently on it was rigged together with pieces from other sled's suspensions. Long story short its junk.

I've found a 96 polaris indy rxl sks 650cc thats has a toasted motor thats missing pieces, and is missing the front skis'. The track has alot of life in it and the suspension is atleast a 10 inch, i can get this sled for a 100 bucks, or whats left of it anyway.

Will the rear suspension, track, cog, any of those things work on my EFI sled? I have no idea which sleds are interchangeable. To make it clear id like to use the entire rear suspension, cog wheel, track, shocks, slides the whole assembly.

Please help, and thanks for taking the time to read this!

-brett
 

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It will work. The tunnel mounting holes will need to be relocated, You will have to do some digging to find out the correct dimensions. Maybe someone on Snowest can steer you to that answer. You may be able to figure that out by measuring the SKS tunnel

You will need to extend the tunnel and you can use part of the old one. Don't know if additional cooling will be necessary. See how the SKS is set up.

You may be better off putting your engine and parts on the SKS
 

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You may be better off putting your engine and parts on the SKS[/b]
I would second that as long as the sks chassis and what not is in good shape. I have done the Extra 10 swap into a 90 Indy 500 and it was pretty straight forward. If you end up swapping just make sure the locations are the same as the tunnel it came out of.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It will work. The tunnel mounting holes will need to be relocated, You will have to do some digging to find out the correct dimensions. Maybe someone on Snowest can steer you to that answer. You may be able to figure that out by measuring the SKS tunnel

You will need to extend the tunnel and you can use part of the old one. Don't know if additional cooling will be necessary. See how the SKS is set up.[/b]
relocating the mounting holes would just take a drill, but fabrication isn't really an option for me, "extending the tunnel" sounds like some work. :lookaround: I was hoping i'd be able to just bolt it in. Theres no way it'd fit without extending the tunnel? Im sorry for asking such a n00b question but what does cooling have to do with changing out the suspension?

You may be better off putting your engine and parts on the SKS[/b]
Would i be able to just drop the 500 in there? or would this require finding or making special parts? When you start getting into fabrication and experimentation its hard to not spend alot of money, probably more then the sled is worth.

If you end up swapping just make sure the locations are the same as the tunnel it came out of.[/b]
See now you make it sound easy! :) you dont think i'll have to extend the tunnel or mess with cooling?
 

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if the tunnel has to bee extended than you are better to just swap the motor out

it should just bolt in using your original mounts
 

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I'd be a little hesitant without more info. Is this 500 running now? How much of that 650 do you need? If it's just ths suspension, maybe you'd be further ahead buying only that? One that fits your sled? Then you'd have a drop in installation. Going through the trouble of installing a 133.5 SKS suspension in a 121 sled has questionable merit in my mind. That same 100 bucks and amount of work would likely pay for an Xtra-10 suspension from a little later sled AND offer some actual suspension performance for your trouble to install it. The SKS skid doesn't offer much at all for the trouble.
 

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i just did and extra 12 swap on my old 93 indy trail. it had the old school 8 inch suspension.
it was no problem. take lots fo measurements! we had the doner sled next to my sled for ease of comparision. measure from common points on both. center of drive cog to rear bolt hole, rear of tunnel to drive cog center, front bolt hole to center drive cog, front bolt hole to rear of tunnel, distance between bolt holes on the doner sled body, ect...
get them to match up and drill the 4 holes. it was really easy. had 2 guys take the measurements, if our measurements didnt jive measure again till its right.
look on ebay or craigslist or a snowmobile site for an extra10 or extra 12 in a 121x15 size and do it. took us about 2 hours to get it in and mounted. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for your imput.
Why would i have to extend the tunnel? just curious?

I'd be a little hesitant without more info. Is this 500 running now? How much of that 650 do you need? If it's just ths suspension, maybe you'd be further ahead buying only that? One that fits your sled? Then you'd have a drop in installation. Going through the trouble of installing a 133.5 SKS suspension in a 121 sled has questionable merit in my mind. That same 100 bucks and amount of work would likely pay for an Xtra-10 suspension from a little later sled AND offer some actual suspension performance for your trouble to install it. The SKS skid doesn't offer much at all for the trouble.[/b]
the 133.5/121 where is this size difference? track length, width, or is it in the suspension. I figured they were different.

the only reason im even considering the SKS is because of its price, im not really looking for better performance, im pretty new to this and still enjoy just riding.

I've looked online, asked around, the cheapest suspension i can find is a not so great 8 inch for 160 without a track. the tracks ive found are like 150 and its definitely used... i could use a cog but probably could go without, now im well over 300 dollars. I know its not alot to some but its almost what i paid for it, i cant believe how much tracks and such run for.

So general consensus is that it can be done but with much trouble. But its cheap, and the cheaper the better this close to the holidays. Thanks guys. If anyone has a suggestion feel free to give it.

Oh and yes the 500 is running, i charged the battery and it started on second pull, still runs great, only reason i wanna make somethin of it, motor runs awesome.

I also have pictures of the current suspension on it right now, i could post those up, maybe its fixable? But i really, really doubt it.
 

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Thanks everyone for your imput.
Why would i have to extend the tunnel? just curious?
the 133.5/121 where is this size difference? track length, width, or is it in the suspension. I figured they were different.

the only reason im even considering the SKS is because of its price, im not really looking for better performance, im pretty new to this and still enjoy just riding.

I've looked online, asked around, the cheapest suspension i can find is a not so great 8 inch for 160 without a track. the tracks ive found are like 150 and its definitely used... i could use a cog but probably could go without, now im well over 300 dollars. I know its not alot to some but its almost what i paid for it, i cant believe how much tracks and such run for.

So general consensus is that it can be done but with much trouble. But its cheap, and the cheaper the better this close to the holidays. Thanks guys. If anyone has a suggestion feel free to give it.

Oh and yes the 500 is running, i charged the battery and it started on second pull, still runs great, only reason i wanna make somethin of it, motor runs awesome.

I also have pictures of the current suspension on it right now, i could post those up, maybe its fixable? But i really, really doubt it.[/b]
the sks is a longer track (longer suspension) that is why you need a tunnel extention, also i dint read that do the measurements are not going to be right i gave you. if you buy the whole sled you can measure off of it though. it really depends on what you want. the sks is not going to corner as well but will be better in powder. it a give and take thing.
 

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the sks is a longer track (longer suspension) that is why you need a tunnel extention, also i dint read that do the measurements are not going to be right i gave you. if you buy the whole sled you can measure off of it though. it really depends on what you want. the sks is not going to corner as well but will be better in powder. it a give and take thing.[/b]
Exactly. You would be switching to a longer length of both track and suspension. It should work eventually but will take time and effort. You might be better off with the short track anyway, it's lighter and faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Exactly. You would be switching to a longer length of both track and suspension. It should work eventually but will take time and effort. You might be better off with the short track anyway, it's lighter and faster.[/b]
So whats the biggest hurdle with using the longer track/suspension from the sks? If not extending the tunnel meant id just fling snow straight up in the air i could live with that.... Id love to keep the short track, but as mentioned, mine is f*ked, so is my track and the cog isnt doing so hot either. id pay what i bought the sled for in just the suspension and track, for used ones, and not "like new" used ones either. The purchase of this parts sled (the sks) is riding on what you guys think. Is this SKS the cheapest option for me? I know it may not be the easiest, but cheapest?


Heres a link to some pics i took last winter of the suspension. I took them because the track was way too loose as you can see in the pictures, i fixed that problem, but you can also see how the track is worn to the point of being slick, and that the suspension has like 1-2 inches give, instead of 8. With this suspension the back end of the sled is practically on the ground. Link: http://s99.photobucket.com/albums/l295/s0r...s%20Snowmobile/
 

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Okay, you're convinced you need a different suspension. That means you'll need to remove the one that's in it as a first step. Why don't you do that - and check it out closely to see if there are actually bent/broken parts that need to be replaced. OR - if you took a little closer look, you see that MAYBE a little attention to this one might save a lot of time/money/trouble. I looked at the pictures, and don't see anything major going on with the one that's there now - other than a major dose of corrosion. You may be able to dissassemble that suspension, grease it all up, and have something to work with. You said the back was sitting low - the spring adjuster appears to have more adjustment left. It appears to be on low or medium? I didn't see anything wrong with the track either - or is the damage not shown in the picture?
 

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I have to agree with the people who said the swap is not worth it in your case.

That said, doing the tunnel extension would be easier then swapping out the motor. THe 500 and 650 Indy's do not have the same mounts, and if you're not confident in your mechanical abilities, swaping out a motor can be pretty intimidating. It's all pretty straight-forward, but there's alot of little details to be remembered, and if you haven't worked on sleds much, you risk never getting it running again.

If you bought the 650, it would be a simple matter to cut off the back of the tunnel and use it for your extension.

Really the simplest thing to do would be to find a 121" skid to drop in there, or just work on yours. You might as well pull it out and see if there's anythign serious wrong with it. Anything you're going to do has to start with that anyway.
 

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I have to agree with the people who said the swap is not worth it in your case.

That said, doing the tunnel extension would be easier then swapping out the motor. THe 500 and 650 Indy's do not have the same mounts, and if you're not confident in your mechanical abilities, swaping out a motor can be pretty intimidating. It's all pretty straight-forward, but there's alot of little details to be remembered, and if you haven't worked on sleds much, you risk never getting it running again.

If you bought the 650, it would be a simple matter to cut off the back of the tunnel and use it for your extension.

Really the simplest thing to do would be to find a 121" skid to drop in there, or just work on yours. You might as well pull it out and see if there's anythign serious wrong with it. Anything you're going to do has to start with that anyway.[/b]
Thanks for the imput guys, i know its not easy to help with a lack of good pictures and snowmobile know how. As mentioned id love to find a 121 to put back in there but i cant find any cheaper then 160 without slides or a track. I will pull the suspension out of the sled tonight and take better pictures for you guys. The track is messed, theres no saving it, the kid actually wore it down so much he turned it around so the brake side was the gas side, so its almost completely bald.

Oh and the problem with the current suspension isnt gonig to be fixed with adjustments, he tried using a shock from a completely different setup and its too big, the shock is whats bottoming out after 2 inches. He also used 3 or 4 other parts from various sleds that werent supposed to go in there. Hes completely rigged and home made. Thanks guys.
 

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NOTE: sorry for 3 posts in a row, it wouldn't let me add the pics in one post so i had to make it 3. once again sorry, if this is too much i can just provide a link to my photobucket. thanks for looking guys.

Ok sorry it took so long its my side of the week to work so.... Anyways, the kid with the SKS is calling me off the hook and i dont know if i should get it, if i cant use it then its a waste of money. Everyone says i need to extend the tunnel but no one says why, is it just to keep snow from shooting straight up in the air?

Heres the pics i took today, got the sled in the garage. Pics:

Caption 1: You can see the sled sits very low, when im sitting on its practically on the ground.


Caption 2: In this one you can see the cog is chewed on one side, its still useable but pretty rough...:

Caption 3: The rest of these are pics of the suspension i took, a pic of each of the shocks, you can see its maxed out without being pushed in, its maxed out just sitting there. You can see the back shock has plenty of give but the front is maxed out....

 

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Discussion Starter #17




Caption 4: Oh and heres one of the track, its have less then an inch of tread on it. :


Caption 5: Heres some pics of the holes drilled to let this suspension even work, why? because the original holes arent circles anymore, they're ovals, they've made themselves bigger.
 

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I know it isnt the greatest sled but its all i got and i really enjoy it. Really need your guys' help. As you can see unless i can find a shock and track for cheap, then the SKS is my cheapest option, can i use the sks suspension, whats the worst thats gonna happen, im gonna get snow up my back?
 

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Okay FWIW, I think you need to take a step back on this. It doesn't look that low to me. And I still don't see any bent/broken parts. You cannot possibley do a fair comparison of this sled to a later model sled - especially regarding track lug and ride height. It ain't gonna work. The sleds built when this one was built all sit at that height and putting an SKS suspension under it isn't going to raise it any (your spring tension adjusters are still on the lowest setting). It looks like that "optional" hole was wrong. The location the bolt is in now would be the correct one. The slot it's worn could be easily repaired with a plate on each side of the tunnel riveted/bolted into place, then redrilling the hole. I see nothing wrong with the shocks (other than the shaft of the rear doesn't look real good - but it might clean up!). I could go on, but the point I made earlier still applies. The SKS deal is only going to complicate your problems in my mind. You'll be way ahead in the long run without trying any mods like that, and working with what you have. Just me....
 

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id have to say from the pics, spend the extra money and just get a new sled. it looks like its been to hell and back and few time. for like 1200 bucks you can buy a nice 98 xc 600 or something.
 
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