[Beerman]

I'm fairly new to snowmobiling and commonly see mention of gearing choices.  I'm planning on having clutch work done on my 00 TCat before next season (only revs to 7800) but I'm hoping you guys can give me a quick education on gearing and what you've found works best.  I'm very familiar with automotive gearing but not with sleds. Thanks

 

[AKCAT]

First what are you running in your clutches?
Whats your elevation?
7800 seems awfully low, but that depends. I run 8500 on mine.
Call a local dealer and see first what you should be running for your area.
I currently run 20-39 gears but thats because mine is set-up for the mountains not the lake.I have dabbled with 21-39 and didn't like them for my taste. There good for trail and lake running.

 

[Beerman]

That's a good question, the clutch is 100% stock.  I'm not sure of the exact elevation for the majority of Michigan but I think's it's somewhere around 1200 feet.  This is what I'm unclear on, is the gearing part of the clutch setup?  I thought clutch kits were mainly different spring combos.  I've searched around but can't find info on clutching 101 and don't yet understand the finer points.

 

[AKCAT]

atyska your right clutch kits are mainly springs, weights, helixes but gearing goes hand in hand with the clutching. It sounds like you need more rpms. That usually calls for heavier weights. But we have to know what you currently run in your clutches before we can get much further.

 

[sled-head]

From my experience the 21/39 or 20/39 is way to low for sea level to 3000 feet. That is a 660 foot drag race set up and you will never hook it up without studs and if you could hook it up then you would go fast all the way to 90 mph and thats where you would sit. Personally I like to have good hole shot, strong mid and decent top end. I found that 23/40 works very good with stock clutching. It would be a good idea  to add wieght to the primary because that will make it pull harder but to compensate for the extra wieght you will have to get a stiffer primary spring or it will bog out of the hole. An ideal clutch set up is a balance between the helix and all the wieght you can pull......The helix controls the shift speed and plays a big part in you engine rpm's......I could write a novel on this subject and still leave areas unexplained so if I were you try the gearing and leave it for a bit....or hang around D&D racing.com or Black Magic.com and just read the posts.
If you have any more questions I can try to help............ Good luck  RIDE GREEN

 

[machz69]

yeah thats way to low; u should stay with stock gearing wich is 24-39 and u should be reving at 8250 .

 

[sled-head]

But from the factory all sleds tend to be geared 10-15% to tall meaning they are geared for speeds that you normaly would never reach.....and even if you can reach the speed the amount of time a person spend there you might as well pick up on bottom and mid by gearing down to 23/40. For what a set of gears are worth and how simple the change is just try it

 

[Beerman]

The one thing I'm still not clear on is where the gears are.  When you guys talk gearing are you speaking about the helix angles in the clutches?  I'm trying desperately to find more info but it's actually kind of sparse out there.  #### I feel dumb.

 

[sled-head]

As if ......dont feel dumb.. all great clutching guru's have to start somewhere. The gears are located behind the muffler. But if you have no knowledge of a sled than you might not want to get into the chain case. What is it that you are looking for? Doesnt the sled work? do you have a need for more speed? are you a lake racer or a trail rider?? or do you just want a basic run down??

 

[Auggie]

Well atyszka, the best advice I would give you is to buy the Service Manuel for your sled and read it from cover to cover. Also buy Olav Aaens Clutch Tuning Handbook from Black Magic Motorsports (1-800-345-9543).

   Auggie

 

[toydoc]

This web page may help until you get a manuel. It will list part names and show location.
http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts....S-2000)

 

[Beerman]

Ok, cool - now I get it.  I've had the chaincase cover off my 95 ZRT to change the oil so now I understand what gears you're talking about.  And yes, I always have a need for more speed, I drag raced cars for many years and since my car is just a bare chassis sitting in the garage now this is where I'm getting to have some fun with adrenaline again.  I'm not looking to lake race the TCat (of course I say that now) I just want to know that the clutching is optimized.  I don't think it is right now since it only revs to 7800 according to the factory tach.  I bought the sled used but was told it was 100% stock, I guess I need to verify what gears are in it, do you just count the teeth?

 

[toydoc]

Yes, you can count the teeth. I think stock gears have the number on them.
7800 rpm sounds low to me.

 

[Snowmad]

the revs are not depending on gearing !
only the clutching ! more weight lowers the rpm and lighter
means more rpm. (same springs and helix)
 

 

[Snowmad]

i forgot one thing ! your 600rpm to low !
somthing is not stock (or is broken)
(if its all stock) is the driven spring in the 1:hole ?
move it to no3 (middle) will give you som revs back !
gearing for trailriding try 23-40 or 24-39
fool- no way (we are all beginers at the start)
 

 

[Beerman]

thanks for all the info guys, very valuable.

 

[Mattsalas]

the revs are not depending on gearing !
only the clutching ! more weight lowers the rpm and lighter
means more rpm. (same springs and helix)

Anyone still here