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My o4 renegade 800 has been pulling the cords the belts since the day it was bought. skidoo says its an allignment thing, but until i get it figured out, i can't be payin over 100 bucks a belt. Anyone got any ideas??? i had a dayco belt come apart on my 99 670ho, so since then i've been afriad of after market belts. but from what i hear, there are better belts out there. So, whicj do you prefer???
 

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oldslowsledder
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Son had belt problems on his 04 800HO MXZX and posted up here. The majority of responses blamed high heat in the clutch area on these sleds and there were several suggestions on how to help cool things down a bit. Can't quite remember so maybe someone can refresh things or perhaps try searching out.

I've used aftermarket belts over the years but personally have found the OEM's to be the best.
 

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Good luck with the aftermarket belts..I've never had any.
First thing you should do is pull the black cover off the clutch gaurd. It was used to lower clutch noise and did little but keep the heat in. Next remove the tool box from the left foot well. Yes the whole thing including the hard plastic case. Warm air will now be allowed to escape. You can also add a flow rite from SLP into the shock tower which will allow more air to pass through.
Next step would be to float the secondary. If it's an alignment thing there is not much you can do as the engine mounts are basically fixed and give you little to no room for movement. However you can double check you torque stop and make sure it is set properly. If all is within spec then like I said float the secondary as it really seems to help with minor alignment issues. Hope this helps some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good luck with the aftermarket belts..I've never had any.
First thing you should do is pull the black cover off the clutch gaurd. It was used to lower clutch noise and did little but keep the heat in. Next remove the tool box from the left foot well. Yes the whole thing including the hard plastic case. Warm air will now be allowed to escape. You can also add a flow rite from SLP into the shock tower which will allow more air to pass through.
Next step would be to float the secondary. If it's an alignment thing there is not much you can do as the engine mounts are basically fixed and give you little to no room for movement. However you can double check you torque stop and make sure it is set properly. If all is within spec then like I said float the secondary as it really seems to help with minor alignment issues. Hope this helps some.[/b]
Thanks for the tips. would clutch heat cause the cords getting pulled out the way they have been. and exactly how do i float the secondary?

i know that oem belts are probably the best, but who makes a good dependable belt that wont break apart on me. i just wanna use a cheaper belt till i can fix the problem
 

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Check your motor mounts and clutch alignment...my bro in law had the same trouble and he used CTC belts and returned them when they blew (and they will blow) Have you tried returning blown belts to the dealer to send in to BRP? We did on a MACH 1 perm owned that ate belts like fat kids eat smarties... We found OEM belts to be the best as well. Perm once put an aftermarket belt on and it left some kind of residue on the clutch..OEM is the way to go IMHO
 

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My o4 renegade 800 has been pulling the cords the belts since the day it was bought. skidoo says its an allignment thing, but until i get it figured out, i can't be payin over 100 bucks a belt. Anyone got any ideas??? i had a dayco belt come apart on my 99 670ho, so since then i've been afriad of after market belts. but from what i hear, there are better belts out there. So, whicj do you prefer???[/b]
 

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I have a 97 670MXZ I have for a backup sled. It gets about 250 miles a stock belts. I took the sled to the doo dealer to check clutch alignment and it was right on. The mechanic said he has a friend with a 670 and had the same problem. He says the stock belts are to soft. His friend now uses Gates Extreme which are a harder belt and they work great. Mine now has one on the sled and will try this week! I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Happy Trails
 

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I doubt Bombardier makes their own belts. You need to find out who makes the belts for them and buy one from them. Because of patents it may be slightly different in size, but it would be very minimal, probably so minimal that manufacturing tolerances would account for a larger difference. Luckily for me an OEM Yamaha belt lasts a long time. I have over 5000 kms on the one I am using now and my spare has 6000-7000 kms on it. I used to change belts every season, but not any more. I inspect it regularly and if a defect is found I will change it.
 

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250 miles on a belt sounds bad i have a 98 formla z 670 i use extreme belts well just one have about 1800 miles on it and was going to swap out for my spare and use it 4 a spare but still looks good so mabe i will not sure sounds like a cluch problem may be alined but could b something elles in the cluch
 

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LOL, I just went back to Doo. Had a 5 year old Gates on there. Non top cog. Put the 417-300-127 on, WOW that belt is super flexible. Alot more than the old belt's should free up a little frictional losses. Havn't tried it, I'm baking ceramic coat on my pipe. Take her out tomorrow:D
 

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We picked up some carlisle top cog design belts for our indy 5's. Two belts for 90$ with a warranty. Had them one season so far so good. Not high horsepower sleds though. For $40 I dont mind even once a year replacing them.
 

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hell, for 40 bucks a belt i'd change em every week, lol. but how can i fix this. doo says they don't know what else to try. how can i check the allingment myself. i gotta figure out something. or else every belt i put on ends up like this after 1 or 2 good rides.

[attachment=33404:SSPX0499.jpg]

[attachment=33405:SSPX0501.jpg]

[attachment=33406:SSPX0500.jpg]

[attachment=33407:SSPX0502.jpg]
 

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Looks like twist to me. If the clutches are in line vertcal, then what about horizontal? Motor might also be flexing under lead? I take the hood off and take it for a quick ride. Watch engine for lots of twist/pull when you gas it. What might be lined up in the shop, will shift with 100+ HP being applied
 

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misalignment ...... oem are now made by the same supplier as yamaha (mitsubishi i think) there good but for the price they would have to be 3 times as good as dayco. dayco have changed compounds lately so if its been awhile you may want to give them another try.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yeah, i'm gonna try that for sure. anyone got an easy sure fire way to check the allignment, without bringing it into the shop. when your lining them up, what to you go by on the primary. center, inside, outside???? i'm open to whatever methods you guys have used on your sleds.


thanks
 

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Clamp a piece of 3/8" square stock in the secondary clutch. Measure from the back of the inside primary sheave, to the far side of the sqare stock. The front measurement needs to be .080" 1.5mm more than the back. On DSA and ZX chassis, 36mm back, 37.5mm front measurements.
Heres a pic


 

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this is how i do it this enables me to ensure both shafts are parallel, and adjust for engine tilt. offset varies by model . after i get everything trued up i give the torque adjuster about 1 turn to preload the motor and comphensate for torque twist.

if this doesent open, try saving to desktop and opening.
 

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