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Discussion Starter #1
I was surfing around and ran across a thread about runing your tra without the buttons for less drag and faster shifting with a added plus of running cooler(less friction). Some have claimed it's ok to run like this and have ran this way for years. One side effect was said it will have a rattle at idle. I like the idea of less drag and cooler , some have said they had the slides molycoated for less drag.
Can you cut the springs down to give it less pressure agianst the slide tower? This would keep things from rattling but get less drag.
I have a can of spray teflon coating for shipping conveyors I thought I might try in the slide area to help for less drag, but im not sure how long it would last. If I coated the whole inside of the cup it might cut down on belt dust build up in there too.
Anyone ever experimented with this area for improvement?

mutt
 

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Just read that in Olav Aaen clutching book

But I don't think I would run it that way for long periods of time

My old TRA never got that hot in the 1st place
 

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Just read that in Olav Aaen clutching book

But I don't think I would run it that way for long periods of time

My old TRA never got that hot in the 1st place[/b]
heat = belt slippage.
 

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I wouldn't run them without the buttons. That would chew up the clutch after a while. I have run the buttons without the springs before though. What a difference. It engages much more harshly and you will need to change clutch springs. I think cutting or grinding some length off the springs would be a good place to start if you want to try something. For the most part, I see taking the springs out as a drag racing thing only.
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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I wouldn't run them without the buttons. That would chew up the clutch after a while. I have run the buttons without the springs before though. What a difference. It engages much more harshly and you will need to change clutch springs. I think cutting or grinding some length off the springs would be a good place to start if you want to try something. For the most part, I see taking the springs out as a drag racing thing only.[/b]
what he said. fighting for thousands of a second now.
 

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The TFE coating is a good idea as long as it dries and doesn't get on the belt, attract dirt or create static. I have had limited success using circular saw blade dry slide treatment (Norton Chemicals). Comet also sells an aerosol clutch dry lube. One trick is to run a 440 race clutch (magnesium) which has reliefs cut into the exterior around the button towers to reduce rotating mass. The concave sliding surfaces can be cleaned up and polished then good quality buttons installed. I have found the cheap jobber ones created more drag than a set of well used Rotax ones.
 

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well I guess sooner or later word gets out. but seems as of late more secrets that my father and I never told are finding there way to the masses. just means one thing having to find others :whistling: .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys ,I kinda figured it was more of a race thing then anything and I dont have sponsers to buy new clutches every weekend . I will be polishing the slides good when I tear into them ( need grunt tool), I did polish the ramps on my helex w/ 2500 wet/dry when I cleaned them.
Anything to make them run cooler and more effective im all ears, saw this and thought id throw it out there :thumbsup:

dooman, I get tid bits from my dad at times but the thing is they only work on old irons not todays sleds... like the front belly pans make good coolers for beer , sheesh I cant even get a crushed beer can in my belly pan!!

mutt
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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Thanks guys ,I kinda figured it was more of a race thing then anything and I dont have sponsers to buy new clutches every weekend . I will be polishing the slides good when I tear into them ( need grunt tool), I did polish the ramps on my helex w/ 2500 wet/dry when I cleaned them.
Anything to make them run cooler and more effective im all ears, saw this and thought id throw it out there :thumbsup:

dooman, I get tid bits from my dad at times but the thing is they only work on old irons not todays sleds... like the front belly pans make good coolers for beer , sheesh I cant even get a crushed beer can in my belly pan!!

mutt[/b]
my father was one of the first around with a tra, formula secondary. he had the comets down pat before that. he raced in sno pro back in the day on a merc twister. performance was the game for him on a sled, period. find the post about hyfax that recently came up it works and has been done for many years.
 
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