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Discussion Starter #1
Last weekend I ripped a stud out of my outer belt while racing. I have a 02 ZR 600 and I race the USCC circuit.

I would like to get a Ripsaw track but I don't think they are offerered in 1" size. There are alot of 1" Hacksaw's on the net for reasonable money.

I would like to stay around the 1" lug, going higher starts to give up too much top end IMO, and the stud get alot heavier...

RV sports has some full block (close to stock) style 1" tracks for ~$20 cheaper than the Hack...

Any thoughts?
 

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IMO the RipSaw and Hacksaw are "general purpose" tracks. They are made to work OK most everywhere, good nowhere.

A good track would be the 9818 1.25 Predator. It is light, and tons of traction verses even a 1.25 Ripsaw
 

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IMO the RipSaw and Hacksaw are "general purpose" tracks. They are made to work OK most everywhere, good nowhere.

A good track would be the 9818 1.25 Predator. It is light, and tons of traction verses even a 1.25 Ripsaw[/b]
I dissagree on the "general purpose" with those tracks. I have a ripsaw, and its asome on hardpack and groomed trails. Any bit of loose snow though and its terrible.
 

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The ripsaw is NOT a general purpose track. I believe it was on these forums that someone asked about it, and the answer was that the ripsaw is designed for hard packed snow. ie. when the conditions are ideal for racing, it bites better than a general purpose track. However, if it's icey underneath and you don't have studs, you'll have fun as the back end will pass your skis every time (I have fun with this :D).

For my purposes, the ripsaw does ok, and it can sure take a beating (compared to the predator track).
 

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My opinion

I had a 0.85 stock ZR track last year

it sucked in deep snow

I then bought a 1.25 Ripsaw

WOW what a dif

I was riding in 2-3feet of powder this weekend

and riding 2 feet of slush on lake in Parry Sound

Was not scared to go down to 20mph and goose it

It pulls nice

My top end is not much diferent this year

I give it 9/10 for the type of riding I love to do

I am sure the Predator might be better in powder but I have no complaint here
 

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I had the 121 Ripsaw on my 02 Mxz 700 and it made huge improvents in all types of riding including pow pow. I didn't notice any change in top end speed but mine was unstudded. Studing may slow you down on top end some but the off the line acceleration will more than make up for this :thumbsup:
 

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121x15x1 3/8s camoplast and you will be smiling ear to ear in the pow pow :D

as for the 1 inch hook up... gotta say hacksaw sounds the best but I have only read
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bump...

Keep the comments comming guys! Thanks for the ones that chimed in...

I need to order this by tommorrow, get it friday and maybe get some miles on this weekend...
 

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The Ripsaw in NOT a "general purpose" track. It is specifically designed for packed trails, and it works very good in that situation.
Compared to a .85 anything, it also works well off trail, but iin a few inches of powder it's not so hot.

I'd never consider anything less then 1.25" ever again. How much speed do you think you might loose, and how often do you spend at your sleds absolute top speeds? Seems silly.

Hey FB, you're right about the Ripsaw being good in the slush though, and on the water too. Do you have yours studded? I've got 144 in mine, so maybe I'm not the best judge of how good it is on the hard pack after all, but I do know that I'm hooking up very good this year.
 

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I had a 9818 on my MXZ (1.25 predator) and when I bought my RX-1 it came with a 1.25 ripsaw, it hooked nowhere near like that of the predator.

We have 3 brand new ripsaws laying around, zero miles, if interested.

Yes the ripsaw is a 1.25, but when I have had the chance to ride the same sled with a differenet track, I was always dissapointed in the ripsaw.

it is a 1.25, but not a full block. Those little knobbies flex over and you really only have a 1" track.

I swapped the RX-1 out to a Cat 1.375 SnoPro track and traction was greater all around IMO.

The Ripsaw again is a "Jack of All Trades" it is OK, off trail, OK on trail, but myself and several others have considered it sub par and nowhere near the hype when compared to other 1.25 tracks. IMO performance is similar to that of a 1" track. The advantage when compared to other 1.25 tracks is that they are lighter.

Myfriends have swapped to 1.5 Intense and I have swapped to a Doo renegade track, both setups leave stock crossfires in the dust on and off trail
 

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IMO the RipSaw and Hacksaw are "general purpose" tracks. They are made to work OK most everywhere, good nowhere.

A good track would be the 9818 1.25 Predator. It is light, and tons of traction verses even a 1.25 Ripsaw[/b]
To the contrary, buddy replaced his 1.25" Predator (stock on 2002 ZR800cce) with 1.25" Ripsaw, studded it the same (144 down the middle) and claims it's head and shoulder better than the original track for aggressive riding, mostly on groomed trail.
 

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Perhaps the setup of the machine can alter the performance of either track, meaning some machines get better performance from the predator and some the ripsaw. What I've noticed is the ripsaw is more flexible, meaning it lasts longer. Bro's predator track has a couple nobs breaking, yes breaking, and he has roughly the same mileage as I do. I also grip in packed conditions better than he does, and that's with two Polaris machines.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the replies guys!

I ended up getting the 1" Hacksaw...mostly because of the next day deliveryo out of Thief River to Fargo. I will get it tommorrow and have it in before I go to bed...

You would be supprised at how much time my zr spends at "top" speed! Heck...even I am...Some of the other guys I race with are running a 1.25 and they say they are loosing to much top end with it. I have a 1.4 bull block older track that I use in the mountains and I know that it really slows you down on the big end...gearing not withstanding...

It will be run with a minimum of 144 studs using all three belts... The stud pullout I had on the stock track was the first time I've had problems with a stud pulling out. That is probably what I get for landing on ice hard on the gas...it was afterall a race! :p

Thanks for the opinions!!!
 

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SW Tech, I agree, the Predator is a great track, hooks up really well, and very durable. 7000 miles on the one I had and not so much as a torn lug. And it was much more confidence inspiring off trail. Loves the powder.

trx450, I wouldn't recommend studding the outside of your track. Stick to the centre and you'll be much happier.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
SW Tech, I agree, the Predator is a great track, hooks up really well, and very durable. 7000 miles on the one I had and not so much as a torn lug. And it was much more confidence inspiring off trail. Loves the powder.

trx450, I wouldn't recommend studding the outside of your track. Stick to the centre and you'll be much happier.[/b]
I've had many a late night discussion on that topic...

I've been studding the outside belts for ten years and never had any problems... Gotta have as much stud pressure as possible.

The track that I wrecked actually had 3-4 spots that I had marked with paint to watch...waiting for it to come apart... It went for +3500 miles of total abuse before getting wrecked. I have no doubt in my mind that if I hadn't been racing, it would have lasted for another 3500 miles...

We have has ~ 4 years around my area with TERRIBLE snow conditions for riding...that track had been through alot and stood up very well IMO. I should say that I am very careful for the most part about when and where I get on the gas and I always check/replace damaged studs...
 

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I am studded 96 down the middle with my ripsaw 1.325 Woodys

The loss on top end is not noticable IMO

I am sure there is a bit but not much
 

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I guess I am a bit too late. I got a 1 1/4 ice ripper for Christmas. I love it. I didn't notice any drop in top end. I know that I used to be in the throttle hard coming out of corner and now I cant do that. I would be off in the woods somewhere. I really like it and I don't think I will be needing to stud anytime soon.
 

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Clutched correctly there is no loss in top end by swapping tracks. Throw another 10 lb heavier track on a stock sled without changing the clutching, yes, it will loose MPH.

I went from a stok 1.25 Ripsaw to a 136" x 1.375 ShoPro track (12 lbs heavier) and actually gained 12 mph on the big end on my RX-1, with the same gearing and drivers. I just clutched it at the same time also.
 
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