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Discussion Starter #1
Must the track be mounted with the directional arrow forward? I have a new 9854 and I do not care about top speed, just hookup. It seems as though the lugs would hook better going the other way. I have done this with a kimpex agreessor track that is much less beefy and the track has held up fine and hooked MUCH better. Is there a reason why I should not mount it this way? Also, could someone who has studded 144 down the middle send me a digiphoto of their studded track showing this pattern or post it here in this thread. Thanx in advance to anyone who can help here.
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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braking
 

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Coming 2 a Trail near You
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Follow the arrow... I have heard many people that have doen it backwards... the other thing is is does a number on the lugs... and dooman is right braking is very important
 

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My 9854 hooks real well going the right way. Just put it on like its supposed to be.
Ryan
 

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They are correct you will lose most of your braking ability. It is a great trick to doo for grass drags as it will increase holeshot. I've heard of people running paddle tracks one way one season then the other way next year to bend them back :0:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am studding the track so braking will be good. Toes in front on the track as per recommendations. How bout a pic of 144 down the middle? Bueller?
 

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lOOK AT WOODY'S WEBSITE OR ANY OTHER STUD MFG. MOST HAVE PATTERNS SHOWN ONLINE. THE STUDS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TRACK ASSIST BRAKING, MIDDLE FOR ACCELLERATION. WATCH YOUR SCRATCH LINES FOR REPETITION WITHIN 12 PANELS. I HAVE HEARD THE MIDDLE IS THE WEAKEST PART OF THE TRACK SO DONT OVER DO THE VERY CENTER. MOST WEIGHT IS UNDER THE RAILS. JUST MY .02
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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I don't know about studs used in the outside belt helping braking.I always thought the middle was for braking/exceleration,outside for cornering ??? .
 

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Dont want to start a peeing match but the reason most people only stud in the centre is because the outside is the weakest. That is where they rip out first. This is because that is where the most weight is because the slide rails sit there. Hard cornering will make the outside studs rip too. Last year we studded Ladyk's 02 mxz700 with 144 down the middle in a long V pattern. 1" studs on a .88" track. After more than 5000kms of abuse none ripped out or bent, just worn down a bit. BTW we used the steel backers.
 

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Other than the race sled (240 chisels with Bender plates) I only run down the middle. The most durable and IMHO it makes a nice trail hook-up. It gives allot of strait line hook and brakng, but you still can throw it around in the corners.

I would recomend bying a template right from Woody's they have a new one this year that's plastic and has all of the patterns on it including the competition 144 down the middle.
 

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Camoplast put the arrow on their tracks for a reason. The track has probably been tested, tested, and retested and that is the way they say it should go.
But who are they anyway! What could they possibly know about their own track designs!
Just my opinion, if you want your track to last, run it the way it was designed to run!
 

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BTW, woody's website is wiem.com They have a stud pattern on there for 144 down the center using double diggers, The same one I'm going to use.
 

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Carefull. The F sleds only can run studs in the middle. There are only two fiberglass belts in the narrow track.
 

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Don't get mislead thinking studs help braking, mostly an harder surfaces but in loose snow it's the shape of the lug that helps thats why they should be installed according to the arrow
 

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Sorry, I think someone edited an above post.

I thought we were talking about one of the F Sleds with the narrow track (F5,F7) They can only run studs down the middle, and not many of them. There are only 2 2" wide belts running thru the hole track. Put a stud anywhere other than the belting and say by-by to the stud and track.
 
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