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Discussion Starter #1
I'm shopping for a used race sled to trail ride, and maybe enter a few races. Do the 2001 sno-pro's have oil injection? What about the 02's. I know the 03 sno pro's have gone to racegas premix, which seems to make them less than desireable for trail riding. Are there any special concerns with trail use of 440 race sleds? Also what is a good price if i can find a decent 01 sno-pro? thanks
 

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My friend races and trail rides his 99 and 01 snopros. The 01 is a fan cooled and very nice sled. I got to ride it last year when I met him in the UP to go ridding. They all have oil injection except for the new 03 liquid. The fan cooleds are nice sleds.
 

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:) Those that have read my first postings know I have reentered the sport after a 29 year snooze. Oil injection? Wow what a neat new thing! :D In my earlier experience we ALL had to mix our fuel at the pump on trail rides. You just had to carry a quart or two. (We also only had 5-6 gallon tanks!) :) Just my .02,, I've noticed several posts where the potential buyer of race sleds were turned off to them when they found out they'd have to mix their own. :p
 

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As far as the Sno Pro's go look for a 2000 up.My girfreind rides a 2000 & I ride a 2002.Both are liquid cooled & run ok on trails.Both have oil injection so its pretty easy to fill up but will have to use at least 92 up octane for best performance.Also I wouldnt recommend running it WFO all day on lakes, pistons usually crap out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
how long can you hold one wide open before it gets hard on the engine? most of the riding i do is on fairly tight trails so it usually wouldnt be a problem, but i'd hate to burn one down going across a lake. what kind of top speeds could i expect? would a 01 snopro keep up with older 600's?
 

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Usually guys who run Sno-Pro's on the trails should do the following to be safe.

1. Don't change stock jetting. Don't make the mistake of jetting down. Some guys jet down a size or two depending on the conditions (weather, altitude, etc) this is a racer thing and may work out okay for a short sno-cross event, but when your trail riding you want to error on the rich side. The stock 310 jetting is best left alone. My friend jetted down 2 jet sizes and burned a piston, ouch. . .

2. To be extra safe a lot of guys retard the timing one degree. The timing perameters on a 440 liquid are advanced compared to most sleds. That's one of the ways AC gets 97/98 horses out of a 440. Reducing the timing a degree or two might affect performance slightly, but it will still rock for trail riding. You can easily open the hood set the timing back to zero or plus one and do a quick drag race, then set it back for your normal trail riding.

3. SPEED VS. ZR600. I had a fairly good rocking stock ZR600 SE 2000. My friend rode a 2000 ZR440 Sno-Pro. My friend weighs 100lbs more than I do. We dragged in a field and up to about 350 ft (60 miles an hour) the Sno-Pro rocked. His Sno-Pro would either tie or beat me and he weighs more than I do. That's up to about 60 miles an hour. At speeds beyond 60 (the next 100 to 150 feet, the ZR600 pulled away from the Sno-Pro. I have seen the Sno-Pro do 100 MPH on the trails. They are geared and setup for the low end stock so you'll be hanging or kicking ZR600's up to 60MPH easily. For a lot of trail riding that's all that's necessary.

Also when hitting the bigger bumps you sometimes get on the trails. That Braaap, Braaap, liquid power of a ZR is nice to have (if you have a liquid Sno-Pro your getting the extra power to hit the trottle and get faster speeds over those bumps at will). The sled weighing less in the front than a 600 may experience more ski lift when hitting the throttle which is a thrill. But for some (who want railing performance on the trails) it might be a bit of a drawback. My buddy had no problems with his sled on the trails as setup stock configured. However he wanted to get a better rail-like performance (less ski lift) and installed a coupling kit. He claims it made a BIG improvement. So for $80 to $120 for the coupling kit, for trail riding I believe he would highly recommend that add on.

When you hit the big bumps the lightness of the sled makes it work through the big stuff easier and faster. Believe it or not you can actually ride a 440 fan through the hugh valley like moguls and bumps faster (at a higher rate of speed) than a 440 liquid. We have seen this and the only explanation is "the lightness of the front end". Inertia is the movement of a mass and the inertia of a mass in motion is greater when the mass(weigh) is greater. So what happens is the lighter the front end is the easier it is for it to bottom out in the huge craters that we sometimes see on the trail. A 440 liquid weighing a little more than a 440 fan will have greater inertia so it will keep dropping down into the crater with a higher force at the same speed. The 600 being even heavier will fall into the hole with even greater force. This is why 440 sleds can handle the rough stuff so much better than 600's or other heavier sleds. Of course this is supposing that the front end actually falls into a big crater.

For smaller moguls you might be hitting the throttle and the sleds front end is up above the entire bump and the rear suspension is dealing with it. (a situation that I have seen and experiened on a 440 liquid and it puts a smile on your face.)

Since less weight means the sled will handle the bumps better, I realized that I had more than a good replacement for my Blair Morgan ZR600 SE in the Firecat F7. The F5 or F7 are as light or lighter than the 440 Sno-Pros. That being the case they will handle the really nasty moguls better than a heavier ZR600 could ever hope to do. So my ZR600 is "SOLD" and my Firecat awaits the riding season.

Greg
 

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Atomicat, are those suggestions basically the same for a 02 fan sno-pro? I got one last year (couldnt pass up the deal) and dont know a thing about them. Thanks
 
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