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Discussion Starter #1
I had removed my drive clutch from my sled since it was not engaging but the driven pulley was working fine. I took the clutch to the cat dealer and they said that there was nothing wrong with it maybe misaligned when I first took it apart asnd then reassembled it, they said it should engage after they put it together, I put it back on my sled and now the driven pulley is not turning and the clutch is just spinning with no engaging!

HELP!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
when I start the sled the driven pulley and brake disk should e turning right?
[/quote

I noticed last week whe I started the sled the driven pulley was turning and the belt and the drive clutch was spinning but not engaging so I removed the drive clutch and took it to the dealers, the only thing I did to the driven pulley was to turn it by hand to check the alignment marks which were off by probably a quarter inch, is there anything that by turning the driven pulley manually or not having the alignment marks lined up could cause the driven pulley not to turn?

thanks
Tim
 

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snofrog is right engage at 4000. the drive clutch(one on motor) will turn with motor. driven clutch(one the brake is hooked to)won't move till drive clutch engages(4000 rpm's). if sled doesn't move when this happens. make sure your track will turn by hand.do this when clutch isn't engaged though. sometimes track clips rust and won't let track turn. if this is the problem take some oil and put on the clips and turn track by hand. then start sled and try to move sled again.
 

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remove the belt, raise the sled and spin track. that will tell you if there is a prob with the driven end it will also tell you if there is a bearing prob. If the track is spinning free and the keystop is okay on the driven shaft then move back up to the primary clutch cuz the prob is there. The guys are right engagement on mine is from 3500-4000. I have a 500 efi.
 

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Primary clutch (DRIVE) is on the engine Left side, secondary (DRIVEN) is attatched to driveshaft under air box Left side. Drive shaft runs left to right into chaincase on right which connects power to lower driveshaft (under sled) via chain.
As rpm increases the DRIVE (eng) clutch sides will come together & pinch belt , as enough force is applied the clutch will grab belt & start to spin the belt in return start to turn driven clutch( Airbox)side resulting is sled starting to move . As sled speed increases the belt will gradually move up in the DRIVE clutch & down inside the DRIVEN , this gives the sled the ability to have power & torque at any speed & rpm (theoretically) Think of a bicycle, the theory is the same just not automatic! To answer your question the DRIVEN clutch should only move when the sled is moving . or if in the air the track should spin as well
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Primary clutch (DRIVE) is on the engine Left side, secondary (DRIVEN) is attatched to driveshaft under air box Left side. Drive shaft runs left to right into chaincase on right which connects power to lower driveshaft (under sled) via chain.
As rpm increases the DRIVE (eng) clutch sides will come together & pinch belt , as enough force is applied the clutch will grab belt & start to spin the belt in return start to turn driven clutch( Airbox)side resulting is sled starting to move . As sled speed increases the belt will gradually move up in the DRIVE clutch & down inside the DRIVEN , this gives the sled the ability to have power & torque at any speed & rpm (theoretically) Think of a bicycle, the theory is the same just not automatic! To answer your question the DRIVEN clutch should only move when the sled is moving . or if in the air the track should spin as well[/b]
thanks guys I'll check all that out, the one thing I wanted to add is that I had found a washer with a large diameter that I think came from the clutch according to my diagram, I never took the apart any farther than the cap and spring. I think that this part goes between the spider assembly and movable sheath, I ask the cat dealer if this part was not in there (because there are supposed to be 3 spacers in the diagram) if that would cause the clutch not to engage and he said it would not matter and he went ahead and put the spring and cap back together, was this guy wrong?
 

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thanks guys I'll check all that out, the one thing I wanted to add is that I had found a washer with a large diameter that I think came from the clutch according to my diagram, I never took the apart any farther than the cap and spring. I think that this part goes between the spider assembly and movable sheath, I ask the cat dealer if this part was not in there (because there are supposed to be 3 spacers in the diagram) if that would cause the clutch not to engage and he said it would not matter and he went ahead and put the spring and cap back together, was this guy wrong?[/b]



let`s chill for a min... ( forget everything you know to this point about the clutches )go put the rear of the sled in the air so the track isnt touching the ground ( 5-6 inches off the ground ) take the parking brake off and rev the sled up to 5000 rpm`s and report back . M
 

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Discussion Starter #16
let`s chill for a min... ( forget everything you know to this point about the clutches )go put the rear of the sled in the air so the track isnt touching the ground ( 5-6 inches off the ground ) take the parking brake off and rev the sled up to 5000 rpm`s and report back . M[/b]
You are a God!! my first born is yours, at 5000 it turned!!

Thanks a ton

Tim
 

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I wanted to know if there is anything to make that engage at maybe 3000?[/b]

a lighter spring in the primary clutch ,hevier weights or both will bring down the engagement at the cost of slower acceleration/power in the bottom end and possibly bogging . start a new post and ask for the stock setup for your clutches (weights, springs, helix ) then compare to what you have and go from there .glad to hear you are on the right track again lol! M
 

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Discussion Starter #19
a lighter spring in the primary clutch ,hevier weights or both will bring down the engagement at the cost of slower acceleration/power in the bottom end and possibly bogging . start a new post and ask for the stock setup for your clutches (weights, springs, helix ) then compare to what you have and go from there .glad to hear you are on the right track again lol! M[/b]
Thanks for everything!!
 
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