Upper Shaft Bearing Driven Clutch Side Gone

More than likely the bearing will not just slide off the shaft. If it does you simply slide the shaft out a bit and change it (might as well change the other side also). If it doesn;t come off, you should be able to get the shaft out by bending the side of the bellypan out a bit on the clutch side. Then you have to have that bearing pressed off. If you or a buddy has a press, thats great. If not, most auto parts stores (a good one, that does rotors and such) most likely has one. Should charge you no more thna $10-$20 to take it off. You will frustrate yourself trying to cut that thing off, opr beating it off.

When you install the new one, use a little neversieze.

So you can't access it by just removing the flange plate(airbox removed)? I was hoping to try without opening up the chain case.

So you can't access it by just removing the flange plate(airbox removed)? I was hoping to try without opening up the chain case.[/b]

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If the bearing will slide off the shaft, then yes. But I doubt you will get that lucky. Most of the time that bearing has to be pressed or cut off the shaft. But like I said earlier, if that bearing just went, the other is probably on its way out too. You might as well change both. If you can get it off easily I guess ti would be a piece of cake. But you know the only part that locks the shaft in place is the collar on that bearing. You could potentially shift the shaft by trying to do what you are saying.

If you were on a trip and had to get it going, yeah try it. But if you have the extra 1/2hour, I would invest it.

when mine went, I pulled the whole shaft out, and just took that to the dealer to have it taken out. He used a torch and a hammer,,, think he only charged me 10$,,, had I known that, I could have torched and hammered it,,, LOL,,, if your in there changing, and you have 10,000 mile on it, change all 4 bearings while you are in there that deep. Not that expensive and definetly better than having another bearing go 100 mile into next year.

when mine went, I pulled the whole shaft out, and just took that to the dealer to have it taken out. He used a torch and a hammer,,, think he only charged me 10$,,, had I known that, I could have torched and hammered it,,, LOL,,, if your in there changing, and you have 10,000 mile on it, change all 4 bearings while you are in there that deep. Not that expensive and definetly better than having another bearing go 100 mile into next year.[/b]

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I would consider a different dealer after that. That is something someone in the garage does becasue they have no better way to do it. The proper way is to press it off. Heat plus beating = work hardening/warping.