Snowmobile World banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm doing a preseason going over on my 03 ZL 600. I already had shocks rebuilt, and while I was there replaced all skid beargings. I figured I might as well do the jack shaft bearings while I was there....already had the 2nd dairy clutch off so no biggy. Pull my chain case cover and didn't like what I saw.........Top gear had haevy signs of wear and lower gear was just starting to wear. Teeth were sharp from chain wear. The chain it self has waer on the teeth. IS this normail for only 1800 miles ?

So I add a few more parts to the list. The gear's are 15 teeth wide. Top gear is 22 teeth and lower gear is 41 teeth. Now to me this seem's like a odd gearing or is this normail for a Cat. Let's say I wanted to change the ratio, cause who realy wants to go 120+......what would be a better setup while still being able to do 100. I know in my other sled's the gearging is more like 19 & 39. I just don't want to change it because I am unfamiler with a Cats clutching compaird to other make's. So any idea's ?

Moveing on the jackshaft came out ok. Went to pull the clutch side bearging off and it wont move. Tryed looseing the collor, and that won't move. OK....tryed taping the bearing off.....and the outer shell just fell apart. Now I'm left with the inner race stuck on the shaft. I'll try spliting the race at work tomorrow but any idea why it won't move. It was full of greese and it dosn't look like it's spun on the shaft. What give's ??????

I'm also wondering why there are only 2 drive sproket's and not 4 like my last sled. Would adding to outboard one's be a good idea, track never sliped but that don't mean it won't. Would there be enough room for outer sprocket's to clear the suspension rail's ???

My last question is will Boysen reed's work with the EFI on this engine ? The factory reed's are singel stage and very weak at that. The boysen are two stage. I'm not looking for power gain's but maybe just clean up the slow speed rideing with a little crisper responce ?

I checked on some diffent AC's and it turns out a Zl and Zr had diffrent options.

My gear choice's are Top 22,21,20,19 and my lower could be 41,40,39.

What's a good gearing for lifting the ski's over a hill at 70....with about a 100 mph speed still ? What about for rideing in loose ungroomed trail's ? I'm just looking for a good "FUN" gearing.

Right now with 41,22 any thing over 40 mph it just dosn't have any zip....but don't get me wrong it still hauls A$$.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I have never replaced jack shaft bearings- have never seen one fail.

Have replaced several drive sprocket shaft bearings, and the speedometer pickup/ clutch
side bearings are bears to get off. Have had to hacksaw off inner races more than once.
They have never come off easily for me. Can't get behind them to tap then off without
removing the track drive sprockets. These bearings fail often. See poll in forum.

Don't know if EFI would have anything to do with reeds. Boyesons are what my
sled guru put in my T-cat carb'd sled. Said they were the racers choice at the time (late 90's)
He also made up a radar run clutch/gear/chain setup and a dragrace setup.
To be effective, the clutching (primary weights and secondary helix) have to be
changed when changing the gearing.

Can't give you any specifics for your sled as far as clutching or gearing. But I have had
good luck sticking with stock gearing in most of my cats, and playing with the clutches.
Just clutching so it doesn't shift out as fast and runs at a little higher rpms kind of
works like changing gearing. Obviously won't change your initial ratio, but the 600
should have plenty of grunt off the line with stock gears, unless you are grass dragging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok...I guess we have diffrent names for thing's. I was refering to the jackshaft as being what drives the track. I would have called a driveshart what the clutchs turn. I guess diffrent people refer to things with diffrent names.

YES I'm replaceing the lower bearging's on the shaft that drive the track. I to have seen the pole, and my friend tossed his beaging last year at 1500 mile's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
980 Posts
-Ok, the shaft that drives the track is the drive shaft (holds the drive cogs that spin the track). Having these bearings fail is common, especially the speedo side. It is a good idea to grease the bearing after each ride, especially if you ride in real wet conditions. If the bearing is bad on the chain case side, this is typically a sign of water contamination of the chain case lube. This would also explain the rapid deterioration of the chain and gears. If I change my chain case lube seasonally, I expect to get 6-7,000 miles before they typically have to be replaced. I changed the ones in my ZR at 9,000 and they were starting to get pretty bad. Prepare to bend over at the counter when ordering a new chain and gears, they are proud of them. If you want a bit more grunt and a little less top end you can drop your gearing by a tooth. Your easiest swap would be to go to a 21 top gear, but this may be to big a jump if you only replace the top. You may want to drop the bottom by a tooth as well. Do a forum search for 'gearing a zr 600' and you can probably find some older tuning threads. You are best off leaving the gearing stock and putting your money into clutching if you want my honest opinion.

Normally drive shaft bearings will come off with only a bit of persuasion, but there have been a few sleds that I had to put in the press to remove them.

Many A/C sleds only use two drivers on the drive shaft, especially the z and zl models. The higher horsepower sleds and the snow pro's used quad drivers (I think the zr models did also.) You can add drivers if you like, but they are probably non necessary if you do not have ratcheting problems now. If you intend to add more power, run a real loose track, or do mostly deep snow riding you may want to reconsider.

-The term 'jack shaft' refers to a mechanical intermediate shaft. This is the shaft that connects your secondary clutch to your chain case. These bearings also fail, but not as soon as the drive shaft bearings do. The 500 had to have them replaced at 6,000 miles, the 600 had them replaced at 10,000 miles just for preventative reasons. My daughters z440 had them fail at 1,200 miles, but the sled sat for 3 years before I bought it.

These bearings are a bit harder to remove, the clutch side often needs to be pressed off.

-I have tried both new stock and boysen in my zr 500 and 600. There is not really any real performance gain, but you can feel when the other reed opens on the twin petal reeds in the 600, not the 500. I guess what I am saying is that they work fine.

Later,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Just a heads up incase you wernt aware. The locking collar on that bearing is the eccentric type. There will be another hole in the collar to place a drift punch in and giver a rap to spin it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well I am putting a clutch kit in as well. What I'm looking to do is turn my Zl into a Zr. I am just looking into the diffrent "Factory" gearing. Now why could the same sled have come with 2 or 3 diffrent gear ratio's. As far as the price....try buying them for a Polaris....Cat prices look good.

I'm only changeing the chain case lower bearing because I'm right there any way.

As far as the reed's, I won't have to worry about the EFI ? I know carb engine's I put Boysen reeds the guid said to rejet.....So you could fell the second stage, like a extra kick,or more like a drop in the low end power from rich or lean condition ?

I have been told the Zl SS(what I have) use's the same skid as the Zr....I know the Zl shock's don't fit the SS, but Zr shock's fit the SS. I would just like to make sure the skid dosn't the 2 extra drive sprockts. I don't want to buy the sprocks and find out they won't clear....can't check every things apart right now, after I put back in I don't want to do this again.

Keep the ideas comeing...........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
980 Posts
There are different gearing options for different elevations. Typically the cat catalog references these gear sizes by elevation level.

The factory cat fuel map is a touch rich in the first place, I have had no adverse effects from running Boysen reeds and I have been running them for thousands of miles.

Not sure on the skid shock question. Try asking Timespentsearching, he is pretty knowledgable on the shocks for those skids.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
10,054 Posts
I have boysen reeds in my efi with no problems at all,,, nothing to change there other than the petals.
I did have a jackshaft bearing go out on my firecat and it actually egg shaped a hole in the bracket that holds it all in. As for the collar,,, I used a little heat and it came right off.

On the bearing issue,,, if I am changing the bearing at the speedo housing, I also change the lower bearing in the chaincase,,, may not need to, but at the price of them and as easy as it is to get to them (LOL) I just do it.

Im not sure why you would have to change your clutching set up by changing gears though,,, I have changed gears many times in the past without having to touch the clutching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Cool than I go and get the Boysen reed's.

I figure I would just change both "drive shaft" bearging's while I there.

Any thought's as to what a agressive trail Zr gearing would be ?

Also Timespentsearching IS the person that did my shock's...and at a GREAT price....can't wait to try threm out.
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
10,054 Posts
go to brownsleisureworld.com or arcticcat.com and look through the parts fiche,,, see what stock was for the zr you are looking for and then decide where you want to go from there.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top