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Duane,
It ain't easy! I built a clutch compresion tool. You can buy them for around $90 bucks.
 

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Once you have the secondary off you'll only need snap ring pliers(not sure about rer)Push down on helix,release snap ring and helix will turn and pop up,take note of where spring is in both holes,numbers and letters.If it hasnt been apart in a while,dont be too shocked that you will have to beat the helix off the outer half.
 

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Beat the helix off is an understatement :angry: Its unbelievable how siezed those helix's can become. Use alot of penetrating oil and either a dead blow hammer or peice of wood to hit the helix with. Remember your hitting aluminum. :doh: If your helix is seized this is where patience comes into play. It may take awhile to release it :cussing:
 

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Hey Catz azz,ive always loved your states moto.....Being Canadian ours is live free(once youve paid your taxes)or die(but not until they take the rest of the money they didnt take when you were still alive)And you probably have the right to bare arms ???????
 

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I wouldn't beat on it to get it apart. It is too easy to damage the soft aluminum. This is what I did to get the helix off a 98 F-Z 670. I have a spring compressor that I bought from Goodwin Performance. I compressed the helix in and removed the snap ring. The helix of course wouldn't release. I spray it up with WD-40 and used the tool that comes in the tool kit to spread the clutch faces so that you can change the belt. Make sure that you put some antiseize or grease on the threads to minimize the chance of stripping out the soft aluminum on the fixed half of the secondary. I was able to move the helix back out but it still wouldn't come off. I compressed it back in sprayed it again and worked it back and forth until it finally came off. I cleaned the shaft and reassembled it with antiseize to ensure it wouldn't happen again.
 

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Heres how I doo it, you will need a good set of snap-ring pliers.
Put the clutch on the floor in front of you, kneeling in front of the clutch,
hold on to the bottom(fixed) sheave now rotate the top sheave 90deg's.
with your knee push down the helix and remove snap-ring.
To reassemble, after you have changed the helix or spring posision, push the helix down to partially ingage the key-way, now with both hands turn clutch halfs 90degs now with your knee push down the helix and instaal snap-ring. As long as the helix is not siezed a spring and helix can be changed in less then a min. The first few times get a buddy to run the snap-ring pliers.
 

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mabe your just not taking it appart enough or mabe i just take it appart too much.......lol but mine comes appart easy and i too have made my own tool that does the secondary and the primary also its not pretty but it works.............lmao :p
 

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The RER secondary is totally different. You cannot use the old "one guy twists and holds, while the other puts the snap ring on" anymore. The new secondary has a compression spring only, it does not have the "position" holes as the old ones did. You need to use a compression tool or build your own. My buddy just made one using some box iron, 2" square washers, nuts, and two blocks of wood. Put a nut on the threaded rod, followed by the square washer. Run the threaded rod through the secondary and put the box iron onto the threaded rod, followed again by a square washer and a nut. Place the two blocks of wood on the back edges of the helix, put the box iron accross both blocks of wood, and tighten the nut to compress the spring. This doesn't mar the helix, and allows room to remove the retaining clip. Viola! It is not a quick as a clutch compression tool, but it costs about $2 to make...
 
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