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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 1980 Enticer 250 and I am sick of dealing with the diaphragm Carb and I want to switch to a float carb. Any Ideas of what Carbs would work for this? The carb doesn't work very well and won't adjust the fuel level enough to run right. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I need it to run well not this deal I have lately with adjusting the fuel level and locking it,putting it back together and then trying to start it a month later and it doesn't work. Screw that carb...time for a new one. Please help.
 

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How about a carb from a Bravo? I believe they used a Keihin butterfly carb on those but they did have the float bowl. You would have to pick up a fuel pump too but again the one from a Bravo would do just fine.
 

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Would a fuel pump from a 340 work for that carb? I have one and I would have to track down the bravo carb. Is there any other carb that would work? Just trying to gauge my options.
 

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The fuel pump from the 340 should work fine. Any carb that is the proper size to fit the intake manifold will work too for that matter. The only reason I picked a Bravo is because they were 250 cc engines also and I thought the jetting should be close to what you need so you have an easier time to dial it in.
 

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Ok. Would I have to mix the gas with the oil then or should I try to fit the arm on the bravo carb and stick with the oil injection? Also what year bravo do you think would work best? As close to 1980 as possible I assume?
 

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I'm not sure what you mean about the arm. Do you mean the throttle cable attachment? Also do you have oil injection now on the existing setup? I would try to stick with it if possible. I think the Bravo used the same carb for the life of the model so year is probably not that important.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The enticer carb has an arm that goes off the carb that pulls the oil pump for oil injection, there is no cable. It pulls the arm when the throttle is pressed.
 

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Okay I get it now. It may be best to get a throttle cable setup from a Bravo as well so that it would operate the oil pump. Either that or mix your oil and gas as you said. That would be the easiest. I didn't know that Yamaha had a system like what you are describing. It makes it more complicated for sure.
 

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You can just mix it 32:1 I have been for like 5 years on mine. Those stock keihin carbs are definately a pain to get right but once you get them they work very good. I have the bottom adjuster bolt on the carb so like 2 or 3 threads of the bolt are showing with the locking nut tight. If I put it anywhere else it would flood or bog from being too lean. im at 1 and a half to 2 turns out on the airscrew. I dont even have the choke plunger assembly and cable in mine and it runs great, Ive had a million problems with it sticking and I just use a nut driver inserted in the hole in the carb to choke it for a few seconds when its cold then I chuck it in the toolbox and im off. You could even just try it (unhooking your choke assy) as a troubleshoot and see it if clears up your problem, its free, reversible and It works great for me. I remember reluctantly having to just go to my local yamaha dealer and order diamphrams and gaskets because the carb kit I got from Dennis kirk didnt have the choke circuit provisions in them:cussing: so if you did got one of those kits that could be your problem. A new needle made a big difference in mine as well. I once tried a tillotson hr carb on mine from an elan 250. It would only do like 30 no matter what tuning I did. Put stocker on and 60mph all day long. Now with the sweet exhaust I made I'm thinking about swapping carbs on mine again as well. Im thinking a rubber flange and like a 30 or 32 round slide mikuni for the tunability or a nice pwk:tounge:. If that bravo carb bolts up that may be the ticket, as I know some of those adapter flanges tend crack right away unless carb is supported.
 

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I forgot to say IF you mix then pull your primary clutch off and gut the oil pump gear and take the pump assembly and tank right out of there its the neat tidy way to go and eliminate the possibility of a oil pump running dry and seizing in the future. Its ok if you dont because I've done that too but Id leave a little oil in the lines maybe and just plug them with bolts at least.
 

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Any news on this project?? I have a great carb from an enticer 340 + fuel pump I want to throw into my son's ET250 - I was wondering if you had any luck? My problem right now is the hole width for the Carb Flange...they are off by .5 of a cm.....which is 5mm or .2 inches. I can easily make that up by making each hole 2.5mm bigger. Anyhow.....just wonderin.
 

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I am currently working on a Keihin carb off a 79 ET 250. I took the carb off because the sled wouldn't start this fall after sitting for the summer. This carb has never given a lick of trouble until now. After taking it apart I thought the diaphrams looked in decent shape. I then checked the needle + seat and the needle was stuck in the seat (it has a rubber tip) I had to help it out with nn pliers. Then I thought great, this must be the problem. I put the carb back in and the sled started right off. The problem is the carb now leaks. I think it is an issue with the needle adjustment/seating.

Parts for these are wicked expensive. IE 50.00$ for the needle alone.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thx. Cal
 

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ET250 Carb Mod

Took the flange from the ET340 drilled holes wider. Bolted directly on. Not a bad fit.



Just threw the carb on (no heat shield yet - need my snips to chop chop). Carb looks crooked in this pic, but I fixed that too.....



next stop - fuel pump, jetting. Hope the clearance works with that clutch sheave (i think thats what it is).....when that expands I hope its not more than 2 inches or I have more modifications to do.....
 
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