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I have a 97 zrt 600 and it seems impossible to get it to run steadily on all three cylinders.
i have cleaned the carbeurators numerous times and that is not the problem.
the spark plug is usually wet in the cylinder that has trouble. Also what are the wires attached to the carberator for. Do they need to be reatached to the same carb.  I do have one broken choke wire but I can still choke it. Any help will be appreciated, thank you.
 

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i would start by checkin the compression in all 3 cylinders,should be around 110-140psi,and within 10-15% of each other, then you'll know that the engine is fine...
 

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I had the same problem on my 99 zrt 600, it's the carbs needing to be synic. Mine is going to Cat dealer on Thurs. Hope this helps.
 

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how do you sync. the carbs on a zrt 600? I think mine has the same problem. I've sync'd the carbs on my street bike before, but never on a snowmobile. I have a mercury syncrinizer (sp.?) for my street bike carbs.
 

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Had the same problem on my 96.  It was a combo of the chokes not having enough slack so they bottomed out in their holes and there could have been a pinhole in the fuel pump.  I would check your chokes.  Put enough slack in them so that when you put them in the hole you have to push down slightly on the spring to thread them in.
 

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those wires are connected to magnetic switches at the carbs and may very well be your problem. They have to be connnected and properly working. Try by-passing these swithes and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The compression is 120 psi. Also this sled seems to be week in the power department. Top RPM 7400 and top speed 80 mph.

How exactly do you sync the carbs? How do you bypass the switches on the carbs?  Also, if it is the crank seal, how would you know. If it needs replacing can it be done by just removing the clutch?  Any help is very much appreciated.
 

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Compression at 120 is right where you want to be for that engine, actually impressive considering it's a 97, was the top end rebuilt?

As far as bypassing the switches is concerned, what you have to do with them is close the current loop. Unplug all three switches at the connectors, then take the connector that's by itself (goes to only one carb) and connect as follows

black white wire from single connector into the black wire of double conector and black red wire from single connector  into black red wire of double conector

there will be two wires that can remain unconnected, this is ok.



The other thing you can do to test is to bypass all kill switches by unplugging the four prong connector that comes out of the stator, and then using your bypass plug that came with the machine (hopefully you have one), connect the brown and black wires coming from the stator. To stop the engine, you will have to remove the bypass plug. this can tell you if your problem is switch related but it will not pinpoint the problem to say the carb switches etc.

Note: you don't have to cut any wires for the above bypasses.
 

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In your original post you state that one plug is always wet when you take it out.If it is always the same plug that is wet,that tells me that you are getting fuel to the cylinder (possibly too much) but there is no ignition.Your problem is probably that there is no spark.The problem could be as simple as a faulty plug boot,bad wire or a coil malfunction.It could also be a problem with THAT cylinder carburatuer.Good luck!
 

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Is the same choke cable that is broken, the one belongs to the cyclinder that keeps fouling? Make sure the choke is adjusted properly and the float is not sticking or misadjusted on that cyclinder. Even if the bad choke cable isn't your problem, I would still get a new one or three.
Also, If your not already. Try using NGK BR9EYA's in your machine, They are antifouling V-plugs that seem to be working excellent in my sled.
Good Luck!
 

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my buddies 96zrt600 had the same problem. Tried all the remedies above , added an additional ground wire and cured it.
 

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my dads zrt did that turned out to be a bad stator, is it hard to start and some times it runs normal? his had no low end but would run fine up top
 

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Maybe it's just me but I would swap plug wires first and see if the problem moves. Then I would swap a carb (everything stays with its respective carb).

Two easy tests that eliminate a whole bunch of possibilites.

And before someone jumps down my throat; YES, the cylinders all fire at the same time.
 
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